USA TODAY International Edition
Venerable Barilla puts its own twist on fast-casual
The scene: If you cook, you’ve probably seen the familiar blue boxes in the pasta aisle of the supermarket. After all, Barilla is the world’s largest pasta manufacturer and operates a culinary academy at its headquarters in Parma, the epicurean epicenter of Italy, famous for its namesake products, Prosciutto di Parma and Parmigiana-Reggiano. Now, you don’t have to go to Italy or cook to enjoy the company’s products, as Barilla has opened several new fast-causal restaurants on both U.S. coasts, in greater Los Angeles and New York.
Casual is taken seriously, and these are very low-key spots, but the eateries are still warm and charming and feature surprisingly broad menus. You order at a counter below digital video menu boards, and much of the food is sold to go, while there are self-service tables for dining in, and most food is brought to guests. The layout is not much different from a Starbucks or Chipotle, but the atmosphere is a bit more upscale, with displays of glass-jarred pasta, cookbooks, and vertical garden walls of live plants and herbs. Unlike most fast-casual spots, there are touches such as bread baskets, clever napkins printed with various pasta shapes, and a wine and beer selection. It’s not exactly a date night choice, but is great for a work lunch, quick dinner, or grab-and-go at a good value, with pasta dishes worthy of the venerable brand’s reputation.
The three New York locations are in Midtown, with branches at Bryant Park, Herald Square, and near Radio City and Rockefeller Center. California locations include Costa Mesa and USC Village in Los Angeles, with more coming.
Reason to visit: lasagna, Mediterranean salad, pizzas.
The food: Barilla is known for pasta, but these eateries are a celebration of the broader Mediterranean palate, with surprisingly complex salads and soups in addition to a full array of panini sandwiches, pizzas and of course, pastas. The last come in 12 permutations, and each is available with the standard signature Barilla pasta or a substitution of whole grain penne or fusilli, gluten-free penne or fusilli, organic penne, or protein plus farfalle.
The best seller is the lasagna, and it is very good, thanks to a thick meaty tomato sauce and the addition of rich béchamel, a gourmet touch most restaurants skip. If you are a lasagna fan, you will not be disappointed. I also enjoy the tagliatelle Bolognese, another classic, with perfectly cooked, wider noodles in a thick, rich meat sauce. Another enjoyable pasta is the tortellini alfredo, stuffed with a mix of spinach and ricotta, in which the greens are a nice contrast to the rich, creamy and heavily parmigiana-infused white sauce. I go for the classics, but the options include more eclectic choices such as orecchiette Pugliesi, ear-shaped pasta with broccoli, cherry tomatoes, pecorino cheese and chilis; linguine Vesuvio with sautéed squid and shrimp in a spicy tomato sauce with extra virgin olive oil; and penne al salmone, with salmon, capers, tomatoes, basil, lemon zest and roasted garlic. Pastas come in generous portions and run between $9 and $13.
Pizzas are square, thin-crust affairs and come in two sizes, though the “solo” is a bit much for one person. Like the pastas, you can sub a whole-grain blend dough for the regular, and topping choices are equally varied with a half dozen options to choose from. I tried the most traditional, the margherita. I like that the square format gives you a bit of extra crust in each slice, the best part, while the toppings are fresh and the result has a home-cooked look and taste. Vegetable topping choices include artichokes and arugula, while meats span sausage, pepperoni and real Prosciutto di Parma, from Barilla’s hometown.
Most of the panini are made on house focaccia that is baked fresh daily, and these feature many of the same topping options as the pizzas. Barilla goes especially creative and offbeat with its salads. Veggie lovers will be wowed by the Mediterranean, which tops mixed greens with tomatoes, artichoke hearts, onions, and three kinds of beans: cannellini, pinto and garbanzo.The ingredients are chopped so you get a bit of everything in every bite, tossed with a refreshing lemon dressing. Beyond this, there is one of my favorites, panzanella, based on bread cubes, and several other options featuring everything from salmon or tuna to rosemary chicken to quinoa.
These spots are perfect for those who want something fast and inexpensive without sacrificing restaurant cooking, and they definitely sit at the high end of the fast-casual space On top of that, the menus offer a selection of healthful, whole grain and vegetarian options, at least before you get to the dolci, where Italian classics tiramisu and panna cotta are featured, along with a fresh fruit salad.