Wool as ‘The Green Thread’ In Sustainable Fashion

A wool advocate explains why ‘Mother Nature got it right.’

Wholly sustainable

fibers are few and far between. But wool, a natural and renewable resource, is the fiber of the moment for brands and retailers seeking performance-driven, sustainable materials to align with consumer demand for greener apparel and accessories.

And proof of sustainable fashion’s growth is in the numbers: Instock retail data from WGSN reported that U.S. sustainable fashion products grew 19 percent year-to-date in 2017 compared to the year prior, and noted that the surge was seen in several market segments across value and luxury sectors.

Here, Stuart McCullough, The Woolmark Company’s managing director, discusses the sustainability of wool, how its uses have evolved and upcoming trends in wool apparel.

WWD: Why is wool “the green thread” in sustainable fashion?

Stuart McCullough:

Wool is a natural, biodegradable and renewable fiber, making it the perfect choice for those seeking clothing that has a minimal impact on the environment.

Here in Australia, renowned for its fine

Merino wool, generations of woolgrowers have shown how the Australian rural landscape can be managed effectively while protecting the natural environment, supporting rural communities, and meeting the needs of increasingly environmentally aware customers.

Wool is an entirely natural fiber grown year-round by Australia’s 70 million sheep that graze extensive grassland terrain. Every year, Australian sheep produce a new fleece, making wool a completely renewable fiber source.

Furthermore, and importantly, wool is 100 percent biodegradable. When disposed of, wool decomposes in soil in a matter of years, slowly releasing valuable nitrogen-based nutrients back into the earth, acting like a fertilizer. In contrast, synthetic fibers are can be extremely slow to degrade.

One of the largest emerging issues in textiles at the moment is pollution from synthetic microfibers. Micro-plastic particles, including microfibers from synthetic clothing and textiles, are now ubiquitous in aquatic and land-based ecosystems across the world. In fact, it is estimated that 0.6-1.7 million tons of microfibers are released into the ocean every year, with new research by the University of Manchester, recently published in Nature Geoscience, finding the number of micro-plastic pieces in the world’s waterways is vastly greater than originally thought. Without active intervention, the abundance of these 5mm in diameter particles is set to increase as consumption of plastics and man-made fibers in clothing expands to meet demand from a rising world population and increasing regional incomes.

Microfibers can enter the environment through sources such as fibers shed from synthetic apparel during use and washing, or through other secondary sources, predominantly degradation and fragmentation of larger pieces of synthetic textile waste. While the full extent of the negative impacts of micro-plastic pollution on aquatic habitats and organisms is yet to be fully understood, the current research suggests physical, chemical and biological impacts are felt throughout the food chain including leaching of toxic chemicals and eventual starvation of host organisms.

A new review into micro-plastic pollution from textiles recommends an increased use of natural non-synthetic materials, such as wool, in global textile markets, because wool biodegrades in marine as well as land environments and therefore does not cause micro-plastic pollution. The review, published in February by Consumption Research Norway (SIFO), was conducted by Adjunct Associate Professor Beverley Henry of the Queensland University of Technology and researchers from SIFO, with support from Australian Wool Innovation (AWI, the owner of The Woolmark Company) and the Cotton Research and Development Corporation.

It’s evident, then, that the positive attributes of wool in terms of its durability, recyclability and low impact care (less frequent washing, at low temperatures with less detergent) are consistent with strategies to minimize shedding of microfibers to the environment. In the end, wool is a completely natural, renewable and biodegradable fiber from sheep that live a largely free-range, carefree existence in some of the world’s most beautiful landscapes.

WWD: How did wool evolve into a high-performance fiber? What specific properties make wool a suitable fiber for performance apparel?

S.M.:

No other fiber can match all of wool’s benefits: breathable, odour resistant, soft next to skin, and keeps you warm in the cold and cool in the heat. With wool, Mother Nature got it right.

Designed to protect you from the great outdoors, Merino wool active wear offers year-round protection, no matter the level of exercise intensity. The unique benefits of Merino wool sportswear allow it to act like a second skin, helping athletes perform at their peak, from sea level to mountaintop. In contrast to synthetics, Merino wool can absorb moisture vapour, which means less sweat on your body. Merino wool even absorbs and locks away the odour molecules from sweat, which are only released upon washing. Merino wool is also an active fiber that reacts to changes in body temperature. Its unique crimp structure helps you stay warm when the weather is cold, and cool when the weather is hot. And as a natural fiber, evolved over thousands of years to protect sheep against the elements, Merino wool absorbs UV radiation, making it a good choice for a wide range of outdoor activities.

WWD: Has Woolmark identified any notable trends of late? What are consumers currently demanding?

S.M.:

The continued growth in the athleisure market means that wool is in great demand from brands and consumers the world over. A key trend is that people don’t just want function in athleisure wear, they want there to be social value as well – they want their clothing to be a representation/extension of their identity.

Many of our current partnerships are with brands looking to embrace the natural benefits of the fiber. For example, at the recent Boston Marathon, we partnered with Adidas to launch a long-sleeved Merino wool tee as part of a larger collaboration exploring innovative new product applications within the performance market, such as its recently unveiled Atric F/22 PK moccasin sneaker with knitted wool upper.

WWD: What is Woolmark’s outlook on the wool industry? How has the market changed?

S.M.:

The outlook for wool, and especially Australian Merino wool, is very positive. There continues to be a consistent and steady long-term shift in consumer sentiment towards the fiber and appreciation for its premium natural qualities. Australian wool has a wonderful and authentic story to tell and demand for the fiber is at an all-time high.

As well as our traditional markets in menswear and women’s wear fashion, a key growth area is Merino wool’s presence in the sports and outdoor market. Leading manufacturers and brands in these sectors are promoting the natural benefits of wool as a performance fiber, and we believe there is still further significant potential for the fiber in these sectors – and also the increasing market for athleisure.

Special mention must be made of China. In recent years, the country has fast become a large consumer of luxury goods. Once a manufacturing hub, the rise of middle-income earners has seen a demand for high-end products, such as those made from Merino wool. Natural fibers and quality are the trends for the new generation of fashion-savvy consumers in China – which is great news for the Australian wool industry.

WWD: Are there any upcoming projects in the works?

S.M.:

The Woolmark Company has a global fiber advocacy awareness campaign going live in September to help educate a new generation of consumers around the benefits of wool. Keep an eye out for it – we’re as proud of the campaign as we are proud of the fiber.