Buy­ers Tout Bold Yet Com­mer­cial Pieces in Lon­don

WWD Digital Daily - - News - BY FIONA MA

LON­DON — A light sched­ule, amidst heavy protest­ing, was pre­sented at this sea­son's Lon­don Fash­ion Week Men's with many big-name brands still miss­ing from the short three-day list. Burberry man­aged to strong-arm its women's wear pre-collection de­but as a starter to the week­end's events. To pad out the sched­ule, the Bri­tish Fash­ion Coun­cil in­tro­duced the Dis­cov­ery Lab, a plat­form to show­case emerg­ing lo­cal tal­ents — re­tail­ers paid at­ten­tion to both new and young la­bels and said that their cre­ativ­ity re­ally shined through.

“Print and pat­tern is king for spring ‘19 and it should be worn clashed,” said Si­mon Long­land, gen­eral mer­chan­dise man­ager for men's wear and sports at Har­rods. He also said Lon­don is a great place for new tal­ent, and men's fash­ion week con­tin­ues to spotlight and cham­pion emerg­ing tal­ent.

Cre­ativ­ity aside, Tyler Franch, men's and women's fash­ion di­rec­tor at Hud­son's Bay Co. and The Room, noted that de­sign­ers were be­com­ing more en­vi­ron­men­tally aware. “Sus­tain­abil­ity has popped up on a few de­sign­ers' show notes this week,” he said.

Mean­while, David Aquilina, head of men's wear buy­ing at Har­vey Ni­chols, was im­pressed by de­sign­ers who not only pre­sented in­no­va­tive de­signs but also showed great com­mer­cial po­ten­tial.

Jack Cas­sidy, men's wear buy­ing man­ager at Sel­fridges, loved the ca­sual min­i­mal trend. “It's an aes­thetic that is clean and sharp yet with a re­laxed edge,” he said, although his must-have item was a tar­tan zip-up jacket from Ste­fan Cooke.

Here, a roundup of the Lon­don high­lights from the re­tail­ers: and it should be worn clashed. Liam Hodges styled her­itage prints with Hawai­ian flo­rals, and checks and tar­tans were paired to­gether at Oliver Spencer. Lon­don cham­pi­ons streetwear like no other, and this sea­son, streetwear was taken back to its Lon­don roots with retro shell-suits, co­or­di­nated sep­a­rates, ny­lon and em­bla­zoned lo­gos — streetwear is here for the fore­see­able fu­ture.

Tal­ent Scout­ing: I was very im­pressed with Qasimi this sea­son and loved the laid-back, ad­ven­tur­ous, ro­man­tic style of the collection — from the de­signs to the earthy color pal­ette. When sep­a­rated out, the collection has a lot of com­mer­cial po­ten­tial. Must-have Item: I will be pick­ing up one of Ed­ward Crutch­ley's printed shirts — a wardrobe sta­ple for sum­mer that was cen­ter stage this sea­son.

Lon­don Take­away: My big­gest take­away from Lon­don was the reaf­fir­ma­tion of why Lon­don kicks off the men's shows and should con­tinue to do so. Lon­don en­sures emerg­ing de­sign­ers have their mo­ment in the spotlight, in a city that em­braces cre­ativ­ity and he­roes ground­break­ing de­sign­ers like no other. Lon­don starts the sea­son with a huge burst of creative en­ergy, and buy­ers scram­ble to scout out the lat­est tal­ent from Lon­don. Men's fash­ion di­rec­tor at

Bergdorf Good­man and

Neiman Mar­cus

Fa­vorite Collection: Mar­tine

Rose pre­sented an eclec­tic, in­clu­sive vi­sion of her Lon­don man and it was en­thralling. Cot­tweiler also pre­sented their best show to date with great ath­letic-driven sports­wear with a tech/per­for­mance edge.

Trend Spot­ting: Ath­letic/tech/ per­for­mance sports­wear con­tin­ues to drive in­ter­est here. Vol­ume and pro­por­tion are also be­com­ing a bigger part of the con­ver­sa­tion, with fuller trousers and over­size shirts and out­er­wear per­va­sive here.

Best Venue: Mar­tine Rose's cul-de-sac set­ting in Ken­tish Town for her “Love Story to Lon­don” collection was ut­terly charm­ing and a beau­ti­ful, ac­com­plished show. I al­ways love a Charles Jef­frey Lover­boy spec­ta­cle.

Lon­don Take­away: I al­ways find be­ing here in Lon­don in­spir­ing.

It's a very fer­tile place with a lot that sparks my cu­rios­ity. The show sched­ule was a bit leaner than usual, but the run­way is only one as­pect of what's on of­fer here, where I had some great ap­point­ments and did some very pro­duc­tive scout­ing. I al­ways leave Lon­don hav­ing found some ex­cit­ing things.

Buy­ers fa­vored the bold use of prints and pat­terns on a dis­play as a run­ning theme among young, emerg­ing tal­ent.

Men's and women's fash­ion di­rec­tor at Hud­son's Bay Co. and The Room

Fa­vorite Collection: My fa­vorite col­lec­tions were Mar­tine Rose, Cot­tweiler, A-Cold-Wall, Matthew Miller and Alex Mullins. The fla­vor of Mar­tine Roses' collection is the kind of Lon­don spirit that gets me so ex­cited to bring back to Canada. It's the kind of prod­uct that can make an emo­tional con­nec­tion with a client that Hud­son's Bay is look­ing for.

Trend Spot­ting: Sus­tain­abil­ity has popped up on a few de­sign­ers show notes this week. As streetwear smartens up we're see­ing more and more tai­lor­ing, mixed with sport in­flu­ences, and soft tai­lor­ing paired back to the not-go­ing-any­where dad sneaker. Must-Have Item: The state­ment blazer, belt bags, acid yel­low, the printed silk top and any­thing trans­par­ent or metal­lic.

Best Venue: The best venue was Mar­tine Rose's cel­e­bra­tion of Lon­don's eclec­tic, cool kids down a cul-de-sac close to Ken­tish Town where the lo­cal neigh­bors were in­vited to gather around and fall in

love with Mar­tine like I did.

Head of men's wear buy­ing at Har­vey Ni­chols

Fa­vorite Collection: Two col­lec­tions stood out this week­end, which held all the above prin­ci­ples: Mar­tine Rose was by far the stand­out collection and venue, as well as Paria Farzaneh.

Tal­ent Scout­ing: In terms of new tal­ent, Paria Farzaneh shows huge po­ten­tial and a great use of print thread­ing through the collection. We ex­pect we will be see­ing a lot more of this bold use of print this sea­son.

Lon­don Take­away: Lon­don Fash­ion Week for us is about find­ing new­ness, in­no­va­tion and sup­port­ing home­grown tal­ent, so it's great when we find brands that com­bine all of this and also have com­mer­cial aware­ness.

Men's wear buy­ing man­ager at Sel­fridges

Fa­vorite Collection: Charles Jef­frey's show was my stand­out of the sea­son. His vi­sion is so cap­ti­vat­ing and bold and amongst the per­for­mance art and the­ater of the show there were so many de­sir­able and com­mer­cial pieces, from in­tar­sia knitwear to shirts and jer­sey.

A-Cold-Wall was a rous­ing spec­ta­cle and a con­fi­dent rep­re­sen­ta­tion of the world of A-Cold-Wall. The Liam Hodges Las Vegas-in­spired show was also a high­light, with the hu­mor­ous twist and bold prints fab­ri­ca­tion, it's cer­tain that it's his most ac­com­plished collection yet. I also loved the Man show and think it re­ally em­bod­ied the hu­mor, cre­ativ­ity and brav­ery that Lon­don fash­ion is built on. Trend Spot­ting: Ca­sual min­i­mal was a trend that mas­sively stood out; it's an aes­thetic that is clean and sharp yet with a re­laxed edge. We also saw mil­i­tary and util­i­tar­ian de­tail­ing, es­pe­cially in pieces such as sleeve­less util­ity vests. Also face and body art was seen in many shows to com­ple­ment the cloth­ing and con­vey the nar­ra­tive. Must-have Item: Ste­fan Cooke's tar­tan zip-up jacket with cir­cu­lar but­ton de­tail­ing is my must-have item.

Best Venue: The Mar­tine Rose out­door run­way was the per­fect end to a beau­ti­ful Sun­day. In­clu­siv­ity at its max­i­mum, the res­i­dents of the street — where the show was held — were in­vited to wit­ness the spec­ta­cle that en­sued. Lon­don Take­away: It's great to see the emerg­ing Lon­don-based tal­ent pro­gress­ing and fol­low­ing their jour­ney as de­sign­ers. At Sel­fridges, we're fully sup­port­ive of nur­tur­ing tal­ent, and it's clear this sea­son that the amount of tal­ent at LFWM is ex­po­nen­tially grow­ing.

Fash­ion di­rec­tor at

Ga­leries Lafayette

Fa­vorite Collection: I have three fa­vorite col­lec­tions: A-Cold-Wall for its pre­ci­sion, sharp­ness and ap­proach to­ward a fully functional wardrobe; Charles Jef­frey, the new sym­bol of English ec­cen­tric­ity, and fi­nally Mar­tine Rose for its sen­sual and edgy mas­culin­ity. Trend Spot­ting: Over all the men's wear col­lec­tions, there were def­i­nitely three themes that emerged. There were a lot of functional and fu­tur­is­tic out­fits as well as fluid tai­lor­ing that was edgier than tra­di­tional tai­lored pieces. I also saw a lot of preppy meets work­wear styles.

Tal­ent Scout­ing: I saw Bianca Saun­ders from her last show last year at the Royal Col­lege of Art and I con­tin­ued to be im­pressed by her. I'm also keep­ing my eye on Jor­danLuca, a new street and sports­wear brand.

Must-have Item: Def­i­nitely a short-sleeve shirt.

Best Venue: Mar­tine Rose's venue, it was the per­fect end to a sunny and packed day in Lon­don. Lon­don Take­away: Lon­don is a great place for nights out, but this week­end the high­lights were Annabel's and Vir­gil Set.

A look from the Matthew Miller men’s spring show.

A look from the Mar­tine Rose men’s spring show.

A look from the Ed­ward Crutch­ley men’s spring show.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from USA

© PressReader. All rights reserved.