Spring Things

WWD Digital Daily - - Bridget Foley’s Diary -

From Rei and Mi­uc­cia to Ralph’s 50th, Hedi’s stand at Ce­line and var­i­ous ex­plo­rations of gen­der, sev­eral col­lec­tions were worth not­ing this sea­son.

The sea­son was packed with news, on and off the run­way. Some fash­ion was great, some, not so. There were an­niver­saries, a re­treat from street, a ma­jor trans-At­lantic sale. Here, a far-from-ex­haus­tive list of points of in­ter­est from spring 2019.

It’s Per­sonal. Rei Kawakubo and Mi­uc­cia Prada on a wave­length? Only in that both ap­proached spring in deep-thoughts reeval­u­a­tion mode. As per the rare state­ment she sent out be­fore her Comme des Garçons show, Kawakubo ad­vised of a shift from her pow­er­ful, ab­stract ap­proach to some­thing “quiet, serenely in­ter­nal.” Her mod­els wore faux-preg­nancy pad­ding, an ap­par­ent re­flec­tion on the re­spon­si­bil­ity of cre­ation. Her clothes, she of­fered, were now “free of de­sign on the sur­face.” Mere mor­tals would beg to dif­fer. Prada’s con­tem­pla­tive mood was brought on by ex­ter­nal forces. She sought to sim­plify her clothes, she said, “be­cause ec­cen­tric pieces aren’t worn by many peo­ple.…And fash­ion needs peo­ple who care.”

Fab­u­lous at Fifty. It was some­thing fash­ion hasn’t seen be­fore: A 50th an­niver­sary with the house founder still at the cre­ative helm — and call­ing a lot of the busi­ness-side shots as well. Ralph Lau­ren’s fete at Bethesda Ter­race in Cen­tral Park proved just about per­fect for the mo­ment, the pres­ence of Oprah Win­frey and Hillary Clin­ton speak­ing to the man’s and the brand’s im­por­tance to Amer­i­can cul­ture be­yond fash­ion. As for the show, it was Lau­ren’s best in years, rich with emo­tion and beau­ti­ful clothes.

Mak­ing Waves. It was spring­time aquatic. Raf Si­mons showed his Calvin Klein 205W39NYC against the open­ing of “Jaws” pro­jected on gi­ant screens, the ter­ri­fy­ing duun-dun, duun-dun, sound­track creat­ing fear­ful an­tic­i­pa­tion. Turns out, Si­mons kept the Great White at bay. Con­versely, some pretty scary crea­tures showed up at Thom Browne. Dur­ing a pre­view, the exquisitely crafted clothes on view sug­gested a witty, over-the-top preppy romp. But at the show, mod­els wore masks with the lips sewn shut and sea-crea­ture getups that bound their arms. Thom, what were you think­ing? Then there was Chanel. Karl Lager­feld’s un­nat­u­ral won­der of a beach in­stalled in­side the Grand Palais pre­saged a lineup of joy­ful clothes that played to fash­ion’s most ba­sic tenet: to de­light.

Sur­prise! Not. The sea­son’s most an­tic­i­pated show, Hedi Sli­mane’s de­but at Ce­line, gar­nered the most im­pas­sioned re­ac­tion, in­clud­ing a great deal of shocked out­rage. It looks like his Saint Lau­rent! Mon Dieu! But why the fuss, Gus? Ev­ery­thing in Sli­mane’s visual ré­sumé, be­gin­ning with Dior Homme and through his Saint Lau­rent years, in­di­cated a very spe­cific aes­thetic. Pre­sum­ably, LVMH hired him to do what he does, which is ►

Ce­lineRalph Lau­renCalvin Klein

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