Tod’s Resort 2023
An exercise in subtraction defined the process behind the cool resort collection Walter Chiapponi designed for Tod's.
In keeping with his quest to breathe a more contemporary attitude into the brand's bourgeois image, the creative director continued to simplify silhouettes to channel a pragmatic sense of ease, and focused on textures to exalt the house's craftsmanship.
Knitwear was one of his best allies in the mission, with Chiapponi restating his penchant for the category during a preview in Milan by underscoring that it efficiently serves the brand's artisanal flair as “it's not only about creating a shape, but a pattern, too.”
Chunky knitted tops came with a sculpted look on the hips and striped effects, with denim threads included in a style's weft, too. This made for a prelude to a big theme of the lineup, as Chiapponi experimented with denim patchwork motifs on a shirtdress, skirt and pants, further extending the technique on the house's T Timeless bag for a full look.
The designer also replicated the matching effect when he employed fabrics borrowed from interior design, which magnified the crafty vibe of the collection through raw cuts and unfinished details.
“There's this idea of elegance through imperfection, in addition to the one of bringing streetwear into our world,” said Chiapponi. In sync with the tactile focus, he also introduced lightness via relaxed linen tailoring and softness through leather pieces, including a bomber jacket doubled in poplin and an edgy biker jacket with patches bearing Tod's signature Gommino pebble motif. Unfussy leather jumpsuits mimicked midi dresses with their ample, comfortable shapes and sealed the collection's appeal in delivering a nonchalantly luxe offering.