WWD Digital Daily

Marcolin Reports Climbing Margins

In the first nine months of the year, profitabil­ity and revenues increased, though there was a slowdown in the U.S.

- BY LUISA ZARGANI

Fresh off the news that it had acquired the Ic! Berlin brand, Marcolin on Thursday said it had increased its profitabil­ity in the first nine months of the year, on the back of a 3 percent gain in revenues, which were affected by a slowdown in the U.S.

In the nine months ended Sept. 30, net profit at the Italian eyewear company jumped to 13.5 million euros, up by 11.7 million euros compared with the same period last year.

Including non-recurring costs, adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciati­on and amortizati­on climbed 28 percent to 64.6 million euros compared to 50.5 million euros last year, representi­ng a margin of 15.3 percent of sales compared with 12.3 percent.

Sales amounted to 421.6 million euros compared with 409.7 million euros in the first nine months last year.

Marcolin produces eyewear collection­s for brands ranging from Bally, Moncler and Max Mara to Tod's, Pucci, Guess, Timberland and Adidas Original, to name a few. Proprietar­y brands include Web Eyewear.

In September, Marcolin and German luxury fashion house MCM signed an exclusive license for the brand's eyewear until Dec. 31, 2028. It will hit selected stores starting in January.

In a statement, the company touted a strategy “whose main objective is the increase of profitabil­ity, achieved through a process of rationaliz­ation and consolidat­ion of the portfolio of licenses, a focus on the quality of the products and on the margins,” in addition to a sustainabl­e growth obtained “through the careful evaluation of investment­s and monitoring fixed costs.”

In the nine months, operating profit rose to 46.4 million euros from 30.5 million euros the prior year.

Sales in Asia soared 86 percent to 29.2 million euros. Revenues in Europe, the Middle East and Africa were up 4 percent to 204 million euros.

However, in the U.S., sales were down 3.7 percent to 168.1 million euros, representi­ng almost 40 percent of the total, and revenues in the rest of the world decreased 10 percent to 20.1 million euros.

In the third quarter, adjusted EBITDA amounted to 13.3 million euros, up 34.3 percent compared with 9.9 million euros in the same period last year, balancing a 10.4 percent drop in sales, in particular­ly in the U.S.

Marcolin closed 2022 by securing a perpetual license agreement for the production of Tom Ford's eyewear, which it had been licensee for since 2005. The Estée Lauder Cos. closed on the Tom Ford business earlier this year.

The acquisitio­n of Ic! Berlin, unveiled Wednesday, allows Marcolin to expand its portfolio of luxury brands with an additional proprietar­y label. T he Italian company is integratin­g around

Ic! Berlin 140 employees. The eyewear brand was founded in Berlin in 1996 and manages the design, prototypin­g and production of its luxury sun and prescripti­on frames internally.

The goal of the acquisitio­n for

Marcolin is to increase its expertise in metal craftsmans­hip and to expand its portfolio of luxury brands, and to strengthen its commercial position in fundamenta­l areas such as Asia and Europe.

Rumors have resurfaced about leading private equity firm PAI Partners looking to exit Marcolin after 11 years. Neither company is commenting on the speculatio­n.

PAI Partners acquired a majority stake in Marcolin in 2012 from a number of investors who included the Marcolin family and brothers Diego and Andrea Della Valle, and delisted the company.

Marcolin was founded in 1961 and is based in Longarone, in Italy's Veneto region, which is known for being an eyewear manufactur­ing hub. It is led by chief executive officer and general manager Fabrizio Curci.

 ?? ?? Tom Ford eyewear by Marcolin.
Tom Ford eyewear by Marcolin.

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