WWD Digital Daily

Paris Exhibition Explores Artistic Potential of iPhone Photos

Apple conscripte­d five photograph­ers to interpret the themes of memory, nostalgia and capturing a moment.

- BY MILES SOCHA

Back in 2015, when Swedish photograph­er Malin Fezehai won a World Press Photo prize for her image of two Eritrean refugees at their wedding in Israel, it was the first time a winning submission had been realized with an iPhone.

On Friday, Fezehai was one of five internatio­nal artists given a Paris exhibition for work realized with an iPhone 15 Pro Max, which has the equivalent of seven lenses.

"You have the iPhone, but then you have the artist, and every artist offers up his or her or their own imprints in terms of the images that they're creating," says Isolde Brielmaier, deputy director of the New Museum in New York, who served as curatorial adviser on "I Remember You," a two-day display open to the public on Thursday and Friday.

Fezehai, Karl Hab, Vivien Liu, Mika Ninagawa and Stefan Ruiz were all asked to interpret the themes of memory, nostalgia and what it means to capture a moment.

The resulting work ranges from lively streetscap­es and otherworld­ly floral compositio­ns to the kind of staged, cinematic scenes pioneered by Cindy Sherman.

Brielmaier made headlines in 2021 when she conceptual­ized and curated an exhibition at the Internatio­nal Center for Photograph­y in New York dedicated to works produced on iPhones.

In her view, the iPhone camera offers different kinds of capabiliti­es, which increase with each iteration of the iPhone.

"But at the end of the day, you still have the imprint of the photograph­er," she says in an interview. "The photograph­er is deciding, ‘Is this a close-up? Am I pulling back? What am I cropping? How am I composing the image?' That's individual, and there's some intentiona­lity."

Once the photo is taken, a plethora of post-production tools are at the user's disposal to pump up the color and play with light. "And again, that's all individual and based on the photograph­er, whomever is using the phone," she says.

Ruiz, for example, submitted portraits that Brielmaier described as "bare bones," but captivatin­g and impactful.

"There's this sort of imperfecti­on of the sitter that becomes perfect with the use of the iPhone, and the tools that he uses," she explains, lauding the "versatilit­y" of the equipment.

Ruiz cast trendy Mexican kids in the orbit of New York menswear designer

Willy Chavarria, letting their mullet hairstyles, face tattoos and unflinchin­g stares tell the story.

Hab, meanwhile, revisited one of his favorite cities, Paris, and "homed in on the little details that really resonate with him." These ranged from stacks of café chairs to stylish girls on motorbikes.

"All of the artists went in different directions," Brielmaier enthuses. "The iPhone offers up myriad possibilit­ies. And for an artist who is looking to be creative and to explore different outcomes vis-avis their images, it's a really wonderful kind of synergy."

All five of the photograph­ers featured lean into fine art as part of their practice, but also do commercial work on the side. Hab has done work for Louis Vuitton, Liu for Chanel and Ninagawa for Dries Van Noten.

"We see that more and more, particular­ly with younger and up-andcoming artists," Brielmaier says. "They're very comfortabl­e working across different spaces. And I think shooting on the iPhone really aligns with that kind of freedom and flexibilit­y as well."

Fezehai took a road trip to Las Vegas with hula-hoop performer Marawa, who holds multiple world records and also twirls on the grooviest platform roller skates you've ever seen.

"The iPhone gives me a different perspectiv­e than my normal camera," says Fezehai, who describes her work as photo journalism. "Even when I use my [regular] camera, I will use the iPhone to get different ideas of angles that I want to shoot."

Ninagawa, whose iPhone dangles from a floral-print strap, mounted an installati­on layered with intensely colored close-ups of flowers. "I created what nature presented to me," she shrugs.

Liu, dressed head-to-toe in Thom Browne, turned her focus to the tenement buildings in her native Hong Kong that are fast-disappeari­ng, casting a doppelgang­er to pose in the shadow of an architectu­ral style very meaningful to her, as her grandmothe­r lived in one such building and they evoke strong childhood memory.

The mostly black-and-white images also evoke a mid-century fashion shoot.

"There is a fashion element in it, because I was very inspired by Vivian Maier," she says, referring to the later American street photograph­er, whose work was discovered after her death.

"She is one of the photograph­ers that I really like look up to and try to take inspiratio­n from her work."

According to Apple, the iPhone has become more deeply integrated in profession­al workflows among the world's most talented photograph­ers.

 ?? ?? Installati­on and photos by Mika Ninagawa.
Installati­on and photos by Mika Ninagawa.
 ?? ?? Photo by Malin Fezehai.
Photo by Malin Fezehai.
 ?? Photo by Stefan Ruiz. ??
Photo by Stefan Ruiz.
 ?? ?? Photo by Vivien Liu.
Photo by Vivien Liu.

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