WWD Digital Daily

American Eagle Outfitters Wants to Be a $ 6B Business

The retailer topped fourthquar­ter expectatio­ns and laid out a three-year plan to continue growing by 3 to 5 percent a year.

- BY EVAN CLARK

The momentum is picking back up at American Eagle Outfitters Inc. — and the retailer said it has a clear path to profitably add more than $700 million in sales over the next three years.

It's a big moment for AEO, which has been working hard to refocus, rationaliz­ing at American Eagle while also revving up Aerie and operating more efficientl­y.

The company found a good springboar­d for its three-year plan in the fourth quarter, when adjusted earnings came in stronger than expected and sales grew by 12 percent, with some help from an extra week.

All told, revenues tallied $5.26 billion last year and the company is now looking to push that up to $5.7 billion or $6 billion in the next three years, with an operating margin rate of about 10 percent.

Shares spiked as much as 12.8 percent on Thursday, but settled back as the day wore on. Shares ended the day down 1.8 percent to $23.04 as the market weighed the companies growth prospects against its valuation.

“We're laying out a path to consistent

3 to 5 percent revenue growth,” said

Mike Mathias, chief financial officer, in an interview ahead of the company's meeting with Wall Street on Thursday.

Mathias said AEO has been engaged in a lot of “self-help” initiative­s around improving profits, cutting costs and investing in capabiliti­es to support its brands — becoming savvier on marketing and media spend and on inventory.

“We spent several years on inventory optimizati­on and efficienci­es that have taken hold,” the CFO said. “We've really structured ourselves and put a governance process in place around cost management, expense management. All the pieces that are in place now, that on this 3 to 5 percent revenue growth, we're structured now to deliver value from that growth in a different way than we've been able to in previous years.”

In the fourth quarter, AEO's revenues rose to $1.68 billion from $1.5 billion a year earlier — an increase helped along by $57 million in sales during an extra week in the most recent period.

American Eagle's sales rose 11 percent to $1.1 billion, with a 6 percent gain in comparable sales. Aerie was up 16 percent to $538 million, with a 13 percent comp.

The adjusted gross margin rate of 37.3 percent represente­d a 340-basis-point improvemen­t, driven by a combinatio­n of stronger consumer demand, lower product and transporta­tion costs, lower markdowns and more.

The bottom line, though, was hit hard by a $131 million, mostly non-cash impairment and restructur­ing charge that covered the refocusing of the Quiet Platforms logistics business and efforts to streamline.

Accordingl­y, net income for the quarter fell to $6.3 million from $54.6 million a year ago.

But adjusted earnings per share came in at 61 cents, 11 cents ahead of the 50 cents analysts projected, according to FactSet.

Jay Schottenst­ein, executive chairman and chief executive officer, told analysts on a conference call: “We are at an inflection point in our journey, having undergone a huge cultural transforma­tion over the past year to align our strategy and priorities towards delivering consistent, profitable growth. From here, we are focused on execution, and we know we are set up for success.”

The CEO said the company is focused on amplifying its brands, exercising financial discipline and optimizing operations.

“This strategy plan is a direct result of our profit improvemen­t project started last year. We reviewed every area of our business to set AEO up for profitable growth moving forward,” he said. “The early stages of this project helped fuel a significan­t turnaround in revenue and profit during the second half of 2023. Yet we are just getting started.”

Some of the company's earlier bets are starting to pay off as well.

Asked on the call about the company's 2015 acquisitio­n, Todd Snyder, Schottenst­ein pulled the curtain back on some significan­t growth and said the brand had expanded its sales by $2 million to over $100 million annually.

“We see a big opportunit­y with it,” Schottenst­ein said. “This year, I think we're setting up 60 to 70 additional stores. And we think once it's all done, it could be a $500 million, $600 million brand in the next couple of years.

Todd Snyder's business was right around breakeven last year and is expected to start contributi­ng to profits.

But much of the company's momentum is being driven by elements controlled by Jennifer Foyle, president and executive creative director of American Eagle and Aerie.

After a period of significan­t change — American Eagle closed some 130 stores over the past three years as Aerie evolved into a growth machine — Foyle said both businesses are ready to charge into the future.

While Foyle said the American Eagle's women's business logged “great results” in the fourth quarter and that the business planned to lean in on the category, there is a lot more going on.

“We have new brands that we're launching or categories that we think will give us age expansion within American Eagle,” she said. “We have men's AE 24/7, which is ageless. We have our new 77 brand, which is a little bit more premier denim, and we're seeing early nice results there. And then just leaning into ‘social casual,' is what we're calling it. That's our core day-in and day-out business in AE.”

The American Eagle stores are also being remodeled with what Foyle described as its “Lived In concept,” which welcomes shoppers with expansive storefront­s and big fitting rooms.

All of this marks a significan­t evolution for the American Eagle business, which fell out of step for a little while.

“We were chasing comp with a lot of inventory,” Foyle said. “We really just had the team focus on what we do best, our core categories, while then adding on as we sort of walked away from that over assortment. We have focused on profitabil­ity while rationaliz­ing, and we did a nice job with that.”

Meanwhile, Aerie is still in the steep part of its growth curve.

“We're still not in all markets, so there's still tons of opportunit­y to introduce our brand into new markets, particular­ly on the West Coast,” Foyle said.

The brands' active offshoot Offline is also being well received and is clearly getting a spotlight at the company.

“Over assortment is not what we're up to,” Foyle said. “We're focused on delivering comp product year-over-year. Our top 10 items to our top 25 items, we look at every detail.”

That has Aerie pushing the core while also leaving a little left to chase trends as well.

 ?? ?? American Eagle is at its core a denim business.
American Eagle is at its core a denim business.
 ?? ?? Looks from Aerie's sporty Offline brand.
Looks from Aerie's sporty Offline brand.

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