WWD Digital Daily

Karün Creates Eyewear Out of Trash

The Patagonia- based eyewear company is making strides with its sustainabi­lity efforts by creating products out of recycled materials like fishing nets, car parts and cigarette butts.

- BY LAYLA ILCHI

Since launching in 2012, Karün has scaled a sustainabi­lity-minded eyewear business from turning trash into products, supporting local communitie­s by collecting waste from natural ecosystems across the globe.

Founder Thomas Kimber launched the eyewear brand with what he described as a “regenerati­on model,” which is a multiprong­ed approach that focuses on utilizing innovative recycled materials, supporting local communitie­s and ecosystems and providing full transparen­cy to customers, all while creating high-quality eyewear.

“We believe we don't have to recreate new products necessaril­y or newness — we have enough,” Kimber said. “We need to change the way that the products that are already existing are made, so we focus on making very high-quality products under a very different way that at the same time can help empower local communitie­s and can help regenerate natural ecosystems while innovating at the highest level, from Patagonia to the world.”

Over the years, Karün has worked to be first to market with products made of innovative recycled materials. Kimber said Karün was one of the first eyewear brands to create sunglasses from recycled wood in 2012, and then followed up the innovation with sunglasses made from recycled fishing nets.

Karün also uses recycled materials like metal frames and pipes, leather, cardboard, car lights and ocean plastics for its sunglasses. The brand partners with various companies to transform the recycled materials through chemical and mechanical processes to give them the characteri­stics of virgin materials.

Kimber said the brand puts as much emphasis on utilizing sustainabl­e materials as it does on supporting local communitie­s and ecosystems. To source these materials, Karün works with local groups in

Patagonia and Chile, as well as other regions in India, China, Thailand and Europe to support “places that normally don't have opportunit­ies,” Kimber said.

“We work with communitie­s through people that we call impact leaders,” Kimber said. “Impact leaders go out and they collect the fishing nets, the metals and the car lights. They sell it to us, we pay them per kilo and a key thing is that we work with them after that so they can turn that income that they receive into seed capital so that they can start their own micro businesses, which starts a whole virtuous cycle around their own activities in their own communitie­s and they become leaders that are respected.”

This sourcing model not only brings income to underserve­d communitie­s, but helps clean up and restore ecosystems, the company said.

Karün also developed a blockchain­based traceabili­ty system that gives shoppers insight into the sourcing and manufactur­ing behind their eyewear so they know “the journey [the eyewear] took around the world so that it can get in your hands,” Kimber said.

In the first quarter of the year, Karün released arguably its most innovative project to date: eyewear designed from cigarette butts.

“Cigarette butts are a huge problem, and every single city in the world has the same problem,” Kimber said. “It's one of the most complicate­d forms of plastic pollution in the world. One cigarette butt alone has more than 7,000 toxic chemicals. It's insane. And, that one cigarette butt alone contaminat­es more than 50 liters of water and makes it toxic. When cigarette butts go into the rivers, the waterways in general and the ocean, imagine how much of a mess we're making.”

Karün has launched a pilot program in Chile to collect the cigarette butts, he

said, and then works with Chilean cleantech company Imeko to chemically remove the toxins from the acetate of the cigarette butts, which is then used to design the eyewear.

The founder said he hopes to bring the pilot program to other cities and is looking at New York City or Miami as the brand's next target region.

Alongside the material innovation­s, Karün has been building out its distributi­on across the globe. The brand has more than 5,000 points of sale in 17 countries, partnering with major retailers like GrandVisio­n in Europe and Grupo Devlyn in Mexico.

In December, Karün embarked on its first major retail partnershi­p in the U.S. with Walmart, entering 1,500 doors. Kimber said the brand is expected to expand to all Walmart doors in the near future.

“It's been an extremely difficult journey for us being a small company from Patagonia,” he said. “It's a very faraway place, just physically getting to the U.S. is already a challenge. Getting the funding is a big challenge, getting the opportunit­ies to get into the doors of these markets is a big challenge, but we're very happy with the reception that we have.”

In addition to its global distributi­on, the brand has also teamed with actress Shailene Woodley and National Geographic on collaborat­ions and is the official eyewear sponsor of The Ocean Race.

“The customers that wear Karün understand two key things: the first thing is the quality of the product — it's a very high-quality product. The second one is that you can at least trust that we are doing everything we can to do things in a way that is as coherent as we possibly can and as responsibl­e as we possibly can,” Kimber said.

Going forward, Karün will continue its focus on using innovative, sustainabl­e materials and expand its scope beyond eyewear. Earlier this month, the brand announced its first category expansion in partnershi­p with environmen­tal organizati­on Join the Planet to recreate soccer player Lionel Messi's left cleat with recycled materials. The cleat is a collectibl­e item that also utilizes the Karün Traceabili­ty System.

Through its initiative­s, sustainabi­lity and restoring natural ecosystems remain Karün's core focus, Kimber said.

“Karün means to be nature — it's a beautiful word in the Indigenous language of the people in Chile and Patagonia,” Kimber said. “In Karün, we're proposing a way to understand companies and products from a different perspectiv­e. One in which you can create the highest-quality products without making damage or making the least amount of damage and helping to restore local communitie­s and natural ecosystems with full transparen­cy to customers.”

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 ?? ?? Karün's process recycles cigarette butts into acetate.
Karün's process recycles cigarette butts into acetate.
 ?? ?? Here and bottom right: Karün sunglasses styles.
Here and bottom right: Karün sunglasses styles.

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