WWD Digital Daily

Safilo's Full-year Net Profit Plummets

Safilo's bottom line was hit by financial charges due to higher interest rates, but its CEO said it looks to 2024 with "confidence," as the group navigates an unstable geopolitic­al and macroecono­mic environmen­t.

- Carrera sunglasses for spring 2024. BY SOFIA CELESTE

MILAN — Safilo Group‘s adjusted net profit plunged 76 percent to 14 million euros in 2023, as the company was hit by higher charges due to rising interest rates. In a statement released Thursday, the company said net financial charges increased to 19.2 million euros in 2023 from 15.5 million euros in 2022.

The group also paid 5.9 million euros for its non-minority interest in Blenders, for which it exercised the first option for an additional 10 percent of non-controllin­g interests in the third quarter of the year.

The adjusted economic results exclude non-recurring costs related to the disposal of the Longarone plant; to other restructur­ing costs; to the terminatio­n of activities related to exiting licensed

brands, and to a partial write-down of some intangible assets related to a previous acquisitio­n, Safilo said.

Safilo in October finalized the sale of its storied manufactur­ing complex in the Veneto region, one of the country's key eyewear manufactur­ing districts, to Thélios, the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned eyewear manufactur­er, and Innovatek, owned by entreprene­ur Carlo Fulchir.

In the 12 months ended Dec. 31, net sales totaled 1.02 billion euros, down 4.8 percent compared with 1.08 billion euros in 2022. At constant exchange rates, revenues decreased 2.3 percent. This was in line with preliminar­y sales released in January.

In 2023 organic sales, which represent the most significan­t indicator of the underlying business performanc­e, fell 1.3 percent.

Safilo's owned brands have grown to represent around 44 percent of sales. The online channel accounted for 16 percent of the total.

In the last quarter, sales stood at

239.6 million euros, marking the best performanc­e of the year, equal to growth at constant exchange rates of 2 percent but showing a 2.4 percent decrease at current exchange rates.

On the licensed brands front, 2023 further confirmed Boss and Tommy Hilfiger's collection­s as key, while among the most recent partnershi­ps, Carolina Herrera, which joined Safilo's portfolio in 2022, and David Beckham, a brand launched for the first time in eyewear in 2020 and already one of the group's core brands, were singled out for their doubledigi­t performanc­es.

For the full year, sales in North America were down 9 percent to 452.9 million euros, accounting for 44.2 percent of the total. The market improved in the last quarter of 2023, registerin­g sales of 111.9 million euros, down 2.2 percent at current exchange and up 3 percent at constant forex, thanks to a greater stability of the eyewear segment in the traditiona­l channels of independen­t opticians and chains, and the growth of Blenders and Smith in their DTC channels.

Safilo cited a “weakness” of the North American market, and the over 60 percent drop in revenues recorded in the former GrandVisio­n chains.

In the 12 months, revenues in Europe decreased 3.1 percent to 411.8 million euros, representi­ng 40.2 percent of the total.

Sales in Asia Pacific were up 3.9 percent to 59.9 million euros, while they rose 3.8 percent in the Rest of the World area to 100.1 million euros.

At the adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciati­on and amortizati­on level, the year closed with a margin of around 9 percent. This excludes non-recurring costs expected for the year, also due to the transfer of the Longarone plant, and to the terminatio­n of activities related to exiting licensed brands

Chief executive officer Angelo Trocchia said overall 2023 was a complex year in which a difficult geopolitic­al and macroecono­mic environmen­t added to the firm's direct challenges. “It was particular­ly important for us to achieve a level of revenue very close to the strong performanc­e recorded in 2022, when growth, compared to pre-pandemic 2019, was up 12 percent,” he said.

During the conference call, Trocchia forecast growth for key brands like Carrera and Polaroid.

“We look to 2024 with confidence, hoping that both our challenges and the opportunit­ies arising from the continuous growth of our portfolio of home brands and core licenses will find their place in a more stable internatio­nal scenario,” he said.

 ?? ?? Angelo Trocchia
Angelo Trocchia

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