Buyers Weigh In on Hottest Fall 2024 Accessories Seen Across European Fashion Marathon
Chemena Kamali's triumphant debut at Chloé was a hit in the accessories arena, too, along with items from Prada, Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu, Gucci, Loewe and The Row.
— Chloé takes it all.
Chemena Kamali's debut collection at the brand stood out for buyers and WWD editors — who put it in the top spot of the 10 best shows of the season — not only for the youthful vibe and nonchalant femininity oozing from the looks, but also for some of the strongest accessories of the season.
From '70s-inspired clogs to over-theknee boots, maxi hobo bags to sculptural ones, via statement belts and sunnies, Kamali's collection offered some of buyers' picks for must-have items for fall.
“The bohemian rising trend might orientate the coming seasons in diversifying the actual minimalism and might bring the new fun touch that clients are looking for,” noted Maud Pupato, buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps.
Others that popped onto the shoe and bags' wish lists ranged from Prada, Gucci and Bottega Veneta to Loewe, The Row and Miu Miu.
For footwear, it was pretty obvious that
the main item to add to carts come next fall were boots. “The statement boot is the must-have trend this season. From over-the-knee boots, riding boots, western boots, round-toe boots, to moto — there is a boot for every occasion,” confirmed Roopal Patel, senior vice president, fashion director at Saks.
The overarching ladylike trend that dominated London and Milan fashion weeks and took a more graphic, groovier and ‘60s-inspired turn in Paris offered compelling alternatives with pointy toes and kitten heels as seen at Prada, or the squared shapes and chunkier low heels, like the studded mary janes that stood out at Dior. Despite sneakers giving way to more formal styles in the past few seasons, an honorable mention went to the distressed silk runners seen at The Row.
The Olsens are also behind the luxe Margaux bag that remains among shoppers' most desired accessories. The quest for capacious bags was reconfirmed with plenty of oversize styles and tote bags paraded on fall 2024 runways, but also taking more eclectic spins playing with textures — such as the furry ones seen at Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent and Jil Sander — or further upping the ante in craftsmanship. Cue Bottega Veneta, which continued to exhibit its expertise in this field, as well as the densely beaded bags at Loewe (the asparagus couture bag didn't go unnoticed, for sure).
But even more than single designs, a new attitude in carrying them emerged from shows. “The biggest trend is more in the attitude than the shape itself: [bags are] either worn under the arm in a ‘messy' yet sophisticated way, as seen at Miu Miu and Ferragamo, or at the [crux of the arm] with a bracelet, like seen at Prada or Chloé,” said Pupato.
As for colors, burgundy and oxblood accessories garnered attention at Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo, further fueling consumer demand for the shades. Net-a-porter's market director Libby Page shared that the platform saw a 83 percent increase in searches for burgundy shoes over the last month.
For Neiman Marcus' vice president of luxury fashion Jodi Kahn, vanity bags recently emerged as key pieces for the retailer's customers, as well as styles in light blue and denim and softer shapes that come in medium and large sizes, like Loewe's Squeeze bag.
“Customers are looking for softer and lighter bags: this has led to the success of the hobo shape and the decline of mini bags,” echoed Pascale Leboutet Reberat, leather goods buying director at Galeries Lafayette.
“When it comes to bags, price doesn't seem to be a problem,” said LuisaViaRoma's buying director Marta Gramaccioni, citing the demand for The Row's Margaux or the new Rodeo style by Balenciaga. “They consider them as ‘investment pieces' and are not afraid to spend. Concerning footwear, however, there is more attention. And the flat shoes and ballerinas continue to be popular.”
“Customers are requesting accessories that last in terms of trends and quality. They want to choose right and durable,” said Pupato, adding that they “want less logo and less athleisure in general” but still seek “functionalities and nice fabrics.”
Handbag brand Savette was popular with buyers among the new names to watch, cited by Page and Marissa Galante Frank, beauty and accessories director at Bloomingdale's. Other bag labels on the rise included Métier, Maison Mas, Aesther Ekme, Radica Studio, Hibourama and Paris-based label Domestique, while in footwear, Le Monde Beryl is the niche brand to beat at the moment.
Yet whole new product categories could offer compelling business opportunities for brands and retailers. Take hats, which made a big comeback to the runways in all shapes and forms, making collections more sophisticated and cohesive, as seen at Prada, Celine, Dior and Chanel, where styles ranged from berets to statement floppy designs.
Ditto for gloves popping up at Bottega Veneta, Miu Miu and Carven and belts, which are an increasingly sought-after item and sales of which are growing.
Here, buyers make their top accessories picks for fall 2024.
Roopal Patel
senior vice president, fashion director at Saks
Favorite accessories: The Prada collection was a standout and the top-handle totes with arm straps that fit into the crux of your arm looked superchic in feathers and crystal embroidery. The square-toe moto boots are a must on my list. The velvet swirl caps look like pops of candy that are the finishing touch to any look.
Loewe's focus on craft and detail was exquisite. The couture asparagus tophandle bag and the beaded tapestry bags with the dog are collectors' pieces.
Gucci had some of the best accessories for fall. The over-the-knee boots in Gucci [red], the top-handle bamboo mini and the flap-over bags all stand out.
Chloé had the best boho-chic accessories of the season. The over-the-knee boots, soft hobos with bracelet handles, the banana shoulder bag and signature Chloé belts are going to delight the Saks Chloé fans.
Bottega Veneta's round-toe stacked heel boot and the intricate leather woven tote, which looks life raffia but is made out of leather, are great investment pieces for all year long.
Top trends: Fall is about getting dressed and the focus on craftsmanship came through the accessories and shoes this season. The statement boot is the musthave trend this season. From over-the-knee boots, riding boots, western boots, roundtoe boots, to moto — there is a boot for every occasion for fall.
There is a lot of variety in bags this season. Top-handle totes were seen in every city — the mini top-handle feels fresh and directional. Large oversize hobos and totes emerged in Paris. We also saw lots of texture taking shape in faux fur, shearling and feathers in oversize pochettes. Hats returned to the runways in novel and whimsical ways.
Must-have items: One of this season's statement boots from Prada, Chloé and Gucci. A mini top-handle tote. A feather top-handle tote with an arm sling from Prada. Loewe's asparagus couture bag.
Marissa Galante Frank beauty and accessories director at Bloomingdale’s
Favorite accessories: Fall 2024 was a season filled with exciting, compelling accessories that will certainly inspire clients to shop. Matthieu Blazy does a beautiful job at Bottega Veneta creating fresh covetable accessories while still honoring the brand codes and heritage.
The Liberta bag has intrecciato details on the closure but is an entirely new silhouette for fall 2024. I was also obsessed with the wood knot clutch, which is an iconic shape reimagined, thanks to inspiration from the runway show's set. Chemena Kamali's over-the-knee boots at Chloé were absolutely stunning, especially in green and merlot colorways. In true bohemian fashion there were also gorgeous suedes across handbags and shoes, the over-theknee studded suede boot being a favorite. [In presentations] Gianvito Rossi's featheradorned sandals in black and white were instant mood boosters.
Top trends: Gloves! Chanel, Miu Miu and Bottega Veneta all showed gloves in bold colors or prints. I love a trend that is both fashion and function and these chic gloves are exactly that.
Studs — I love a stud for fall and Stella McCartney's new studded Falabella totes are the perfect update for her iconic shape. At Dior, micro-studding was found on shoes, berets and handbags, giving the pieces an extra edge. At Chloé, there were larger gold studs on suede over-the-knee boots and beautiful bohemian hobos.
Animal prints — Snake prints and leopard prints were all over fashion month. The leopard at Dior was a favorite as well as the exotics at Bottega Veneta and Gucci.
East-West handbags — on the runway Hermès, Miu Miu, Dior, Bottega Veneta, Ferragamo all sent handbags down the runway that were East-West in shape. Many
of these bags had a chic top handle.
Tinted sunglasses — I found this to be interesting because sun usually has a bigger moment in spring, but this fall there was certainly tinted colored lenses on the runway. Chloé, Chanel, Gucci, Coach all showed colorful lenses — many in shades of red.
Over-the-knee boots — From flats to stiletto heels, there were over-the-knee boots at every heel height. Fendi, Gucci and Chloé were just some of the shows that featured these boots in a range of suede and leather colors.
Must-have items: There were so many incredible accessories on the runway this season, I fear there are almost too many on my wish list for fall 2024. Miu Miu's Arcadie bag reimagined in new suede colors. The travel accessories at Tod's. Gucci's new clutch with bamboo metal closure. Dior's studded mary janes.
Jodi Kahn
vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus
Favorite accessories: I loved the artful, allover crystal pump at René Caovilla and the psychedelic zebrastriped styles at Roger Vivier. As well as the incredible statement western boots from Christian Louboutin that were seen in denim and black suede.
Top trends: In the bag category, we loved seeing the bowler shape emerge as a new must-have. It was especially strong at Brunello Cucinelli, Prada and Dior. Leopard stood out in bags and shoes throughout the month, and were particularly great at Marni, Dior and Versace. Platforms continue to shine in shoes. We were also pleased to see the return of the perfect pointy pump. We saw hyper-feminine and sleek styles at Jimmy Choo and Dolce & Gabbana. As a Texas-based company, we couldn't resist the hints of western influence in bags and shoes throughout the markets.
Ryan Kleman
accessories director at Moda Operandi Favorite accessories: The Bel Air bag at Balenciaga: functional and fashionforward, this bag's major catwalk moment will help propel this to the handbag hall of fame. Hyper-embellished bags at Prada: flowers are even better when on a bag than a vase. Dries Van Noten boots: a perfect color and height to wear with the denim shorts from their runway, a new alternative to pants. Embellished tights at Rabanne: a styling secret weapon when you want to take looks up a notch. The distressed silk runners at The Row: a sneaker that is appropriate for even the most formal event. Miu Miu's doctor bag: the tophandle trend evolves into a dome-shape doctor bag.
Libby Page
market director at Net-a-porter
Favorite accessories: It has been the season where accessories have taken center stage, from beautiful brooches and leather gloves to striking hats (pill box and more), this has been the leading moment that has made all collections feel more elegant and totally cohesive. Some highlights include: Chloé's studded mary janes, Gucci's platform loafer and Khaite and Saint Laurent's peep-toe pumps.
Top trends: While trans-seasonal shoes took center stage elsewhere, from heeled loafers at Tom Ford, brogues at Bally and mules at Bottega Veneta, we've loved the versatility beyond boots we're seeing for the fall 2024 season.
Must-have items: Burgundy bags garnered focus at Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Ferragamo and are a great way to add color to a carefully curated capsule wardrobe. Meanwhile, sleek pumps in vintageinspired silhouettes, as seen at Valentino and Dolce & Gabbana, offer the perfect addition to a day-to-night wardrobe.
Heather Gramston
senior head of buying at Browns
Favorite accessories: From a shoe perspective, there was a welcomed variety of newness and a clear return to heels for fall 2024. Highlights were clogs at Chloé, satin destroyed ballerinas at The Row and ‘70s-inspired platform patent pumps at Tom Ford.
Top trends: Spiky heeled pointed boots and stilettos are making a comeback. Must-have items: Miu Miu's kitten heel pumps and JW Anderson's shearling lined boots.
Pascale Leboutet Reberat
leather goods buying director at Galeries Lafayette
Favorite accessories: Air bag by Coperni; Squeeze bag from Loewe in denim; pouch with fringes from Isabel Marant; necklaces and sunglasses from Chloé; Lemaire's fishnet bag and the croissant mini bag; Burberry scarf with a necklace attached.
Top trends: Soft hobo; khaki, burgundy and dark chocolate colors; cabochon; the Far West universes in terms of fringes and colors.
Must-have items: The Calino bag from Jacquemus; the [hat] from Chanel's show; the Chloé belt.
Maud Pupato
buying director for luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear at Printemps
Favorite accessories: The Coperni Air bag, an ode to innovation; Courrèges'
Holy bag was almost on every look and make us want to have one right away; the Chloé bracelet bag is bringing something different to the accessories offer: feminine, precious, bohemian, unique. Simone Rocha's studs brogues are my crush of the season: derbies and brogues are signing more looks, bringing a preppy touch.
High boots are the shoes to wear next fall-winter: Gucci ones in burgundy are definitely a must. And last but not least: the pearl necklace from Miu Miu, worn in a very nonchalant way. [At presentations] favorite shoes were the fully crystal-heeled sandals from Kate Cate, seen during their very elegant presentation at Cipriani in Milan. Bags from Toteme are the new must-have. The upcycled bags from Hodakova, the buckles baguette offers a second life to belts.
Top trends: Regarding bags, the biggest trend is more in the attitude rather that the shape itself: it's either worn under the arm in a “messy” yet sophisticated way (Miu Miu, Ferragamo) or at the [crux of the arm] with a bracelet (Prada, Chloé). Pumps are signing every lady look: Ferragamo, Coperni, Prada, Carven, The Row… everyone with its own interpretation, from very feminine to quieter and more refined. Biker shoes are finishing elevated looks, as seen at Miu Miu, Ann Demeleumeester, Loewe, Hermès. High boots are very present on the runways, signaling the comeback of the bohemian chic trend: Chloé, Isabel Marant, Stella McCartney. Gloves are back in optimistic colors or beautiful neutrals, as seen at Miu Miu and Carven. Sunglasses are very strong (Acne, Courrèges, Chloé, Gucci, Balenciaga) and belts are underlining the waist (Chanel, Chloé, Gauchere).
Must-have items: Gucci's high boots in burgundy; Miu Miu's brogues in camel; Chloé's bracelet bag in burgundy; the Toteme T-Lock bag; Carven's gloves in olive green; sunglasses from Acne; earrings from The Row.
Marta Gramaccioni
buying director at LuisaViaRoma
Favorite accessories: Those from Miu
Miu, Bottega Veneta and Gucci. For next season, women's wardrobes will certainly not be missing some outerwear to be combined with an iconic accessory: a pair of high leather boots, a colorful leather bag.
Top trends: Leather gloves, boots and oversize bags.
Must-have items: It seems repetitive but boots. Next winter season will be focused on boots, in particular the one to invest on is the riding boot.