NOBLE CRAFT
Demand and prices for linen denim are growing.
ancient egyptians wrapped mummies in linen cloth. French courtiers dressed in fine linen in the 16th century. Linen textiles were a home staple well into the 18th century. The noble fiber, derived from the flax plant, exudes textile history and now finds itself a part of the global denim industry’s quest to produce natural fiber denim with inherent performance qualities. →Linen in denim has become a popular topic of discussion lately with clients, according to Intizar Ali, US Group’s general manager, research and business development. →After experiencing the heat waves that made 2023 the hottest year on record— and the affect it had on jeans sales—mills are preparing for another season of intense warmth by using natural fibers in their denim and focusing on lighter weights. Coupled with consumers’ unwavering demand for minimalist staples and elevated basics (a.k.a. the bread and butter of quiet luxury), linen denim is proving to have a runway of opportunities.
“Linen-infused denim is frequently used in summer fashion trends because of linen’s breathable and lightweight characteristics,” Ali said. “This fabric can elevate the comfort of denim apparel, rendering it well-suited for hot weather. Linen blends are frequently featured in designs such as wide-legged pants, shorts and airy jackets, providing a laid-back and fashionable appearance while ensuring the wearer stays cool.”
Lucky Brand is using 10 percent linen blends across its Spring 2024 range of men’s straight fit jeans and women’s ’90s midi and loose shorts. A linen and Tencel fabric give its popular palazzo jean a liquid-like drape. Levi’s offers the men’s 568 Stay Loose this season in a new lightweight cotton and linen denim. Mavi is incorporating recycled linen in its spring collection as well. The brand touts linen to consumers as a “low-impact natural flax fiber, which requires no additional irrigation to grow and is biodegradable, making it gentle on the skin.” Mavi blends it with Tencel for a softer texture.
Although linen is more costly than cotton, Selen Baltaci, marketing manager for Calik Denim, said that linen-preferred constructions are commercial because they appeal to summery fashion. The slub effect and open construction drape that linen adds to denim fabrics make it ideal for the loose-style shirts, relaxed jackets and wideleg jeans that are in demand.
“Linen’s touch and self-slubbing appearance are its most distinctive features,” Baltaci said. The Turkish mill’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection includes 7-10 oz. fabrics made with 10-15 percent virgin linen.
Ali said linen is priced approximately 50 percent higher than other fibers thought it’s a “reflection of its premium quality and unique characteristics.” Mahafuzar Rahman, director of Chittagong Denim Mills Ltd. in Bangladesh, added that some special linen constructions are $8-$9 higher than cotton denim.
“The cost difference between linen and cotton is huge since the worldwide production of linen is far inferior to the production of cotton. It is for this reason that linen has always been classified in a high-range market,” said Giovanni Benelli, sales manager of Elasten, a