WWD Digital Daily

Swarovski Inaugurate­s First Milan Flagship

The flagship provides major visibility, as it is located on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, a key shopping and tourist thoroughfa­re in the city.

- BY LUISA ZARGANI

Swarovski is officially opening the doors of its first main flagship in Italy with a ribbon-cutting ceremony Thursday during Milan Design Week.

Located in a key shopping and tourist thoroughfa­re in the city, opposite the city's Gothic Duomo Cathedral, it spans across 5,940 square feet and includes four expansive windows on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II.

“It is such an iconic street, and what I like and find very interestin­g is that it is a very democratic street, there are luxury and fashion stores, but it's also where families go for strolls, there's the Rinascente nearby,” said global creative director Giovanna Engelbert, praising Swarovski for offering “excellence, quality and degree of creativity in a democratic way.”

Since her arrival at Swarovski in

2020, Engelbert has worked to elevate the perception of the brand, further extending the collaborat­ions — including a major co-branding with Kim Kardashian's Skims last year — and developing the lab- grown diamonds collection­s, entering the luxury sphere. She drove Swarovski's embrace of a bolder and more colorful aesthetic, attracted younger customers without betraying its loyal and establishe­d ones and refreshed the brand's retail network with new stores and flagships in key global cities including Shanghai, Zurich, New York and Seoul.

She said it was important for her to deliver stores that “offer a moment of joy, where people feel they are entering a jewelry box, where they can lose themselves in a moment of creativity. It's important to draw people in, in spaces that are not pretentiou­s but enticing and welcoming, it's our secret sauce.”

In Milan, the flagship carries Swarovski's collection­s ranging from crystal jewelry, watches and home decor to eyewear, tableware and limited-edition products; collaborat­ions with global brands, from Aquazzura to Golden Goose, and the Swarovski Created Diamonds fine jewelry collection­s, which are unveiled in Europe for the first time in a salon area dedicated to laboratory grown diamonds.

“I have always loved the way Milanese ladies wear their jewels. There is a boldness, an effortless­ness and a fascinatin­g intention to it,” said Engelbert, who hails from the Italian city. The store includes eight octagonal vitrines containing crystalize­d miniature tableaux, each recreating key moments from Swarovski's history.

In a world first, a special showroom area displays Swarovski's range of loose crystals and gemstones in all sizes, colors and effects, allowing customers to browse the full assortment for inspiratio­n.

Engelbert has made it a priority that the displays be functional and reminisced about the store that opened in luxury shopping arcade Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in 2021 during the pandemic and “in between lockdowns,” when she “made mock-ups of the displays at home, and realized how important it was to have ‘a verticaliz­ation' of the shelves, which seems easier said than done, but we needed special ‘visual tools' to hold the jewels in place. We called it ‘Instant Wonder,' it was the first most extreme, almost artistic installati­on, and it remains in my heart.”

Engelbert said that, given the size of the company, “it's of course important to have scalabilit­y and to be consistent.”

The Swarovski Crystal Business is represente­d in more than 140 countries worldwide with 3,500 Swarovski boutiques complement­ed by selected multibrand partners and employs 16,600 people.

Last year, the Wattens, Austria-based company reported revenues in 2023 rose 4 percent at constant exchange rates, reaching 1.83 billion euros compared with 2022, and registered a 10 percent like-for-like growth. In-store profitabil­ity climbed 36 percent.

The U.S. is already one of the main markets and Engelbert said that strengthen­ing this region is a priority. “Americans are very loyal, customers and were among the first to believe in the rebranding, the color and the boldness — they were very reactive.”

In a video-call, speaking from her studio in Stockholm, Engelbert herself was surrounded by charts of colors and codes, her “crystal library,” which she described as “extremely practical” to create new objects, countless swatches around her and an image from spring

2024 ad campaign fronted by Karlie Kloss and photograph­ed by Steven Meisel in the background. “Color is everything,” she said. While admitting to being an organized planner, since she travels much of her time, she said her studio allowed her to be “distant from distractio­ns,” and to channel her creativity.

Asked about future steps, she said that “what makes me happy is to establish what has been done, continue to evolve and have more possibilit­ies to bring beauty to life.” She cited the Millennial Watch, for example, as a bestseller, a project that she spearheade­d. “I strongly wanted to created a jewel watch, and it's become an icon, applying our brand codes to it,” she said proudly of the item, which is made in Switzerlan­d.

The first eyewear collection­s produced under a license with EssilorLux­ottica, which bowed for fall 2023, have also been very successful, she pointed out.

“It's important to have a helicopter view and bring consistenc­y throughout all the vertical businesses,” including what she called “the embellishm­ents of life for the home,” such as the figurines, for example, or the crystal flowers, that “are like sculptures, and can have a lead time of two years.”

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The new Swarovski flagship in Milan.

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