Master Sommelier Virginia Phillip
As the weather grows cooler, I often fnd my taste buds craving foods with more hearty ingredients and wines with a bit more weight and structure. Chefs are looking for more seasonal ingredients as well.
The frst course of coconut ginger steamed mussels and clams has quite a bit of diversity. Domaine Baumann Gewürztraminer, 2013, is a good pairing with this dish. This slightly off-dry style of gewürztraminer from Alsace, France, is a fragrant, spicy white that’s ideal with the coconut and ginger. It has a hint of sweetness to balance the savory chorizo and sweet peppers as well. To match heat, moderate levels of residual sugar in a wine can defnitely enhance a dish.
The second course of Atlantic salmon tartare and duo caviar, two of the richer delicacies, deserves a feshier-style rosé. DeMorgenzon DMZ Cabernet Rosé, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 2014, is made from cabernet sauvignon and will be the ace in the hole for this dish. The red berry fruit of this dry rosé makes a nice play on the blackened corn and cucumber mignonette, and sets us up well for a red wine to follow.
For the main dish, Glick has prepared a sour glazed Kurobuta pork. Kurobuta pork is such a tender and naturally favorful pork that an earthy pinot noir is welcomed. Amity Vineyards Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2013, is silky yet structured. The notes of cherry and orange peel with that touch of Jory loam soil will harmonize perfectly with the gastrique and root vegetables. Earth with earth, fruit with glazes—both will line up nicely with this pairing.
The dessert of Callebaut espresso souffé makes a delicious fnale, and the Murai Family Nigori Genshu Saké, Japan, makes an interesting accompaniment. Commonly referred to as “unfltered” sake, nigori (meaning “cloudy”) refers to saké containing unfermented rice solids. Weighty notes of coconut, sweet rice and orange spice fll the glass. Nigori saké is considered a perfect pairing to dense chocolate desserts. Serve in a small glass with a slight chill and enjoy.
alsace, France, 2013, $22.99
Stellenbosch, South africa, 2014, $12.99
Willamette Valley, Oregon, 2013, $26.99
Japan, $15.99