Mas­ter Som­me­lier Vir­ginia Philip

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Chef Tric­oche’s menu con­tains sev­eral de­li­cious sauces, which can be crit­i­cal when se­lect­ing a wine. The pair­ing rule “white wine with fish and poul­try, red wine with meats” went out the win­dow years ago. I of­ten see wines too heavy or too light that over­shadow a dish’s fla­vors, so this menu lets us dab­ble in some ad­ven­tur­ous but re­ward­ing pair­ings.

Lean­ing on the heav­ier side, the first course of seared king scal­lops re­quires the heft of a full-bod­ied white to hold up to the fleshy meat of the scal­lops. With a blend of 30 per­cent grenache blanc, 30 per­cent clairette, 30 per­cent rous­sanne and 10 per­cent bour­boulenc, the Clos de L’Ora­toire des Papes, Châteauneuf-duPape, South­ern Rhône Val­ley, 2013, has just the right amount of neu­tral oak and min­eral not to over­power the dish and mar­ries well with the pow­er­ful bite of the chorizo and Parma ham.

The tasty main-course bal­lo­tine of beef and chicken has been thought­fully paired with Craggy Range’s Gim­blett Grav­els Vine­yard syrah, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 2010. Per­haps best known for sauvi­gnon blanc, New Zealand’s best-kept se­crets are its reds. This red is pow­er­ful and ro­bust, yet the silky tan­nins have just enough struc­ture not to over­power the del­i­cate poul­try.

The dessert course, a rasp­berry bavarois, is a rich, dark choco­late gem that begs for a re­fresh­ing, slightly fizzy dessert red. Conte Vis­tarino Cos­ti­olo Sangue di Gi­uda, Lom­bardy, Italy, 2014, fits the bill. Made from the grapes croat­ina, bar­bera and uva rara, its fla­vors are ripe and lush with red berry fruits and com­pote jam that com­ple­ment the rasp­berry and sor­bet beau­ti­fully, blend­ing well with the choco­late at the same time.

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