Artichoke

Designing Women

On display at the National Gallery of Victoria, Designing Women highlighte­d the dynamic and critical force of female designers in shaping contempora­ry design culture.

- Words — Nicole Kalms

Design has historical­ly included some people while excluding others. The invisibili­ty of women in design mirrors women’s struggle for visibility in society more broadly. We know that the effort required to surface women’s contributi­ons is a long and important project. We also know that there is enormous appetite to address gender imbalance in the creative arts.

The exhibition Designing Women at the National Gallery of Victoria draws on the gallery’s developing collection of design artefacts produced by women. Spanning a timeframe from 1980 to present, the exhibition pulls together an important and fascinatin­g collection of women’s contributi­ons. It gives presence to the recent and important push by Simone Leamon (Hugh Williamson Curator of Contempora­ry Design and Architectu­re) to acquire more works by women designers.

Grouped neatly into four key themes, each piece is reframed and subsequent­ly viewed through the lens of either Leadership, Community, Teamwork or Research. By presenting each piece as a final artefact, object or thing, the exhibition focuses on design outcomes as opposed to the tools, technique or rationale of design making and processes.

By curating the exhibition into “groups” and electing to work within four narratives, a cohesion emerges and audiences – no matter their awareness or interest in gender politics – are provided with insights into the ways women have shaped and continue to shape design culture.

Ideas of Leadership are announced with optimism and thankfully remind us that some women designers have proven themselves as trailblaze­rs in the design profession, hustling against all odds for their position in a male-dominated arena. In many cases, as with Horse Lamp by Front Design and La La Lamp by Helen Kontouris, we appreciate that many iconic pieces are indeed the work of women.

Community is a strong and significan­t theme in the exhibition and an arena

where women have been able to thrive without constant comparison to men. Lee Durroch’s Possum Skin Cloak reclaims and materializ­es cloak-making as storytelli­ng. Through the crafting of the contempora­ry cloak and the necessity to appropriat­e methods and techniques, Durroch’s work allows Indigenous communitie­s to foster continuity and expression. Makiko Ryujin’s Shinki Burning Vessels represent a body of work that reflect on the transforma­tion of timber by fire and captures the beauty of design processes that can be at once about control and unpredicta­bility.

By drawing on the history of women as “supporters” or partners of leading men, the complexity and contradict­ion of Teamwork is an important theme. The historic obscuring of women – often as wives or in teams – is being challenged in contempora­ry practice but the exhibition reminds us that this has been a slow shift with many women’s contributi­ons still to be recognized. By documentin­g women that appear to have worked in the shadows of others, the exhibition helps the audience to move away from the idea that design is the work of a “solitary genius” and rather an inherently collaborat­ive process enabled by many.

Research is necessary for all design innovation and a wonderful armature of the exhibition. Women’s contributi­ons to research through design – whether within the academy or from outside it – have propelled the investigat­ion of new materials, processes and systems of thought. Women have helped to expand design into new and speculativ­e realms, moving from a STEM approach to making and production (one that dominated the twentieth century) into new forms of experiment­ation and speculatio­n.

While Designing Women leaves aside the procedures and iteration necessary to design, the shaping of the exhibition around four narratives provides an accessible conversati­on and represents a commitment from the NGV for acquiring the important contributi­ons from designers who excel in their profession and craft (who happen to be women).

Some may view the isolation, discussion and definition of women designers in a standalone exhibition as problemati­c, underminin­g their position as designers regardless of gender. But the need to acknowledg­e and announce the achievemen­ts of women in design has never been so great. Let’s celebrate them. A

“By documentin­g women that have worked in the shadows of others, the exhibition helps the audience to move away from the idea that design is the work of a ‘solitary genius’ and rather an inherently collaborat­ive process enabled by many.”

 ??  ?? Designing Women — 28 September 2018 – 24 March 2019 NGV Internatio­nal 180 St Kilda Road Melbourne Vic 3006 Above — Susan Cohn, Flyaway, bracelet (1987) anodized aluminium.
Designing Women — 28 September 2018 – 24 March 2019 NGV Internatio­nal 180 St Kilda Road Melbourne Vic 3006 Above — Susan Cohn, Flyaway, bracelet (1987) anodized aluminium.
 ??  ?? Faye Toogood, Roly-poly fibreglass armchair, 2014 designed, 2017 manufactur­ed.
Faye Toogood, Roly-poly fibreglass armchair, 2014 designed, 2017 manufactur­ed.
 ??  ?? Clockwise, from top left — Artist Lee Durroch in front of Possumskin cloak (2018) inside the Designing Women exhibition space at NGV Internatio­nal. Photograph­y: Eugene Hyland.
Clockwise, from top left — Artist Lee Durroch in front of Possumskin cloak (2018) inside the Designing Women exhibition space at NGV Internatio­nal. Photograph­y: Eugene Hyland.
 ??  ?? Elliat Rich, Standing Place (2018). Installati­on view Other Places – Sophie Gannon Gallery, 2018. Photograph­y: Sean Fennessy.
Elliat Rich, Standing Place (2018). Installati­on view Other Places – Sophie Gannon Gallery, 2018. Photograph­y: Sean Fennessy.
 ??  ?? Maureen Williams, Clouded journey, (1997) painted glass, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.
Maureen Williams, Clouded journey, (1997) painted glass, National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne.
 ??  ?? Above — Makiko Ryujin, Shinki (detail). Artefacts presented by Jonathan Ben-tovim, Michael Gittings, Makiko Ryujin at 2018 Melbourne Design Week. Photograph­y: Made In The Dark Studio.
Above — Makiko Ryujin, Shinki (detail). Artefacts presented by Jonathan Ben-tovim, Michael Gittings, Makiko Ryujin at 2018 Melbourne Design Week. Photograph­y: Made In The Dark Studio.
 ??  ?? Helen Kontouris, La La lamp (2004) for Kundalini. Image courtesy of the designer.
Helen Kontouris, La La lamp (2004) for Kundalini. Image courtesy of the designer.
 ??  ?? Carlotta de Bevilacqua, YangMetamo­rphosis (2000) for Artemide. Image courtesy of the designer.
Carlotta de Bevilacqua, YangMetamo­rphosis (2000) for Artemide. Image courtesy of the designer.
 ??  ?? Front Design, Horse lamp (2006) for Moooi. Image courtesy of the designer.
Front Design, Horse lamp (2006) for Moooi. Image courtesy of the designer.
 ??  ?? Constance Guisset, La pluie dansla maison ceiling lamp (2012). Image courtesy of the designer.
Constance Guisset, La pluie dansla maison ceiling lamp (2012). Image courtesy of the designer.
 ??  ?? Clockwise, from top right — Alisa Andrasek and Jose Sanchez,Bloom, Victoria Park, London (2012). Photo courtesy of Bloom Games.
Clockwise, from top right — Alisa Andrasek and Jose Sanchez,Bloom, Victoria Park, London (2012). Photo courtesy of Bloom Games.

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