BBC Good Food Magazine


Butcher and writer Jessica Wragg lets you in on industry secrets to eating responsibl­y As the seasons change, we’re reminded again of new beginnings. Perhaps one of the best promises we can make ourselves when it comes to pastures new is to eat meat more


Ex-dairy beef

Once dairy cattle are spent for milking, the majority aren’t utilised for anything else. Not only does ex-dairy beef have a stunning depth of flavour, but the cattle are usually put out to pasture for longer – living up to eight or nine years in total. The resulting meat is fatty and rich, and what’s more, you’ll be consuming meat that is totally free-range.

Hogget and mutton

Both meats have declined in popularity over the years, making way for their younger cousin, lamb. However, both hogget and mutton remove the need for farmers to cultivate their land with machinery, acting as lawnmowers and fertiliser­s. The meat may need longer to cook, but the strong, rich flavour is worth it.

Free-range pork

Reportedly, only 10% of the pork we eat in the UK is truly free-range. Make sure to ask your butcher where the pork comes from and look for qualities in the meat that will confirm it is responsibl­y sourced – darker, drier skin, a good fat covering and marbled meat. Steer clear of pale, lean, meat and butchers who can’t tell you the provenance.


Jessica’s book Girl on the Block (£20, Dey Street, Harper Collins) is out now.

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