Flavourful cuts to celebrate spring

As the seasons change, put away the slow cookers and cast iron pans and try Jessica Wragg’s alternative cuts and lighter methods of cooking

LAMB Spring lamb always comes later than we expect, and usually isn’t ready until early May. Look out for butchers selling shoulders over 2.5kg, or lamb legs that weigh in at over 3kg. It’s almost certain that you’ll be buying their ˆinal hoggets of the season. Spring lamb should be pale pink, with shoulders and legs that are around 2‰2.5kg. The shoulder will yield the sweetest meat, and it’s much less popular, so you may be able to grab a bargain.

BEEF As the weather heats up, so too does our appetite for steak and leaner cuts of beef. Because of this, market prices often hike at this time of year for the prime cuts. If you’d like to stay economical, keep buying stewing cuts and adapt your cooking methods. For something lighter, buy large slices of the chuck or clod and ask your butcher to bash them out into escalopes. StuŽ with chopped mushrooms, tarragon and mozzarella and fry in bubbling hot butter.

VEAL This is under-utilised in comparison to its counterparts. Veal shin, or osso bucco, is a ˆlavourful cut that’s widely used on the continent and has all of the elements you’d look for in a stewing cut, but makes for an altogether lighter casserole. Substitute red wine for white, beef stock for chicken, and add in chunks of fennel, carrot and potato. Serve with polenta instead of the usual suspects – you won’t regret it.

Jessica Wragg is a Londonbased butcher. Her book, Girl on the Block, is out now. jessicawragg.co.uk @jessicawragg