Curried mutton

My French-lebanese mother made incredible Middle Eastern deep-fried fatayer in the Gambian airport bar-restaurant my parents owned. They’re similar to empanadas and were my pie inspiration, and, although in Lancashire I use shortcrust or hot water pastry, I still follow my mother’s processes. Rich, umami mutton loves spices. Pair that with sweet stone fruits and you’re lying. Marinate the mutton for 24 hours, sauté it, then add to a tomato-based curry sauce with puréed plums, apricots – or you could use apricot preserve. Once cooked, sieve out the meat so it’s coated in sauce, not drowned. Stosie Madi, chef-owner, The Parker’s Arms, Lancashire