LOCAL FOOD HERO: Bethany Kehdy

Described by Yotam Ottolenghi as “a new champion of Middle Eastern food”, Bethany has a second cookbook, The Jewelled Kitchen (Hardiegrant), out in September. She recently launched her Mawsam supperclubs (@swingingmawsam), which she hosts at her chic home in Beirut’s Gemmayzeh. And since 2009 she’s been operating walking and eating tours of Beirut, as well as rural and cultural tours through her company Taste Lebanon (tastelebanon.co.uk). Here are some of her favourite eateries in Beirut and beyond.

SEZA

Away from the buzz of Mar Mikhael is this family-run Armenian bistro offering food cooked with nafas (soul). Try the kebebet, freekeh, basterma quail and manti.

JAMMAL

This gem on the shores of Batroun is pricey, but the quality is superb. Ask to have your table set in the water, dip your toes in, pour the arak and choose from their seasonal menu featuring the day’s catch.

EM SHERIF

The place for a mezze-avalanche experience; lunch is a set menu. A must for first-time visitors to the Middle East.

KELLY’S FISH LOUNGE

At this charming terrace eatery, the fish is cooked by chef Kelly, who picks the best seasonal produce. Try the charred octopus and scallops.

MAKHLOUF

Ask for the shawarma sandwich made with a loaf of bread, extra garlic, pickles, fatty (they’ll smother the bread with chicken juices), rolled and crisped.