BEST NEW TALENT
VIC JUNG EUN CHAE, CHAE
There’s nowhere to hide in a tiny six-seat diner that’s attracting increasingly noisy applause, but Jung Eun Chae’s one-woman-show apartment-restaurant has nothing to hide. In fact, there’s so much good stuff going on you wish more people could see it (an upcoming move to a farm in Cockatoo will not see capacity increase, we’re told). Chae, a calm and hospitable presence, crafts amazing Korean dishes, many of them centred on fermentation and house-made seasonings. It’s finely hewn, exquisite stuff. Chae, as much artisan as chef, has created something truly original.
In short: Pioneering flair.
QLD NATHAN DUNNELL, ELSKA
The only fine dining listed on Nathan Dunnell’s resumé is a stint at Brisbane’s now defunct Stokehouse Q.
But this hasn’t impacted creativity or technicality at Elska. There’s an abundance of ingenuity involved in the venue’s twice-nightly dégustations. From intricate opening snacks through to petits fours, your 15 courses will be meticulously detailed. It could feature anything from a crocodile meatball seasoned with mackerel garum and foraged herbs, to emu tartare wrapped in fermented strawberries.
In short: Native cunning.
VIC ROSHEEN KAUL, ETTA
Despite an impressive CV (Lee Ho Fook, Ezard, Dinner By Heston, Smith & Daughters) and the success of her zine project, The Isol(Asian) Cookbook, Rosheen Kaul initially doubted she was ready for a head chef gig when Etta owner Hannah Green offered her one. Fortunately, Green was right and Kaul’s subtle, clever and – best of all – delicious food is a perfect match for the restaurant. The best thing? Every visit keeps getting better.
In short: One to watch.
NSW DAIKI SHIGETA, FLEET/ROCO RAMEN
Tokyo-born chef Daiki Shigeta has spent the past three years working alongside Josh Lewis to deliver Fleet’s exceptional bespoke tasting menu night after night. In June, together with barman Rob Mudge, he was handed the keys, entrusted to transform one of the country’s best restaurants into an artisanal ramen bar, Roco, for a season. Whether creating delicate dishes for Fleet’s finessed Mod Oz menu, or serving bowls of rich tokusei ramen, Shigeta has proven he has the skill, commitment and creativity to keep up with the very best.
In short: No fleeting talent.