AFRICA
Megan experienced something just as magical as witnessing lions and leopards during her epic adventure: she watched her son Sam grow from child to friend.
A mother and son search for the ‘ Big Five’.
Enduring relationships with our children need love, hard work and trust. We create boundaries to protect them and hope one day our efforts will be rewarded with lasting friendship.
An African adventure with my son Sam was a small moment in time I knew we had to make happen. For me, it was time to let go of being the ‘parent’ and become the ‘friend’.
We start in Johannesburg, a melting pot of people all living in each other’s backyard. On a tour of Soweto, we immerse ourselves in the urban vibe of the township that was at the heart of the struggle for freedom. We also visit Nelson Mandela’s home.
We check into the picturesque Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa. A highlight of our stay is a beautiful five- course degustation. Thoroughly satisfied, we adjourn to the open fire with a glass of pinotage, South Africa’s signature red wine variety. Then our next stop is Cape Town – SA’s secondlargest city, which sits at the base of the majestic Table Mountain, which is flanked by Devil’s Peak and Lion’s Head. Our home for the next two days is the Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa.
Cape Town is surrounded by picturesque hiking trails. We choose to explore Lion’s Head. The trail is so steep that it’s necessary to use ladders, rungs and chains at times. I can’t even begin to describe the jubilation as I arrived at the summit of my ‘Everest’.
I will never forget the proud look on Sam’s face when I surged (okay, crawled) through the clouds, arms thrust high in victory.
For the ultimate cultural experience, you just can’t beat The Table Bay Foraging Expedition, led by urban forager Charlie Standing and executive sous- chef Darren Everts. Everts details how he incorporated our foraged bounty into a delicious threecourse meal at The Table Bay Hotel.
Our journey continues to Bushmans Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Wellness Retreat – which was once voted the number-three hotel or resort in the world – in the foothills of the Cederberg Mountains. With daylight fading, we climb into our custom-built safari vehicle and head off toward the mountains where the kadaro awaits us. Meaning ‘tinderbox of stories’, the kadaro was originally a shepherd’s hut and is bursting with rustic charm.
A roaring fire and more than 150 candles welcome us to our first braai (South African barbecue). Executive chef Charles Hayward expertly tends to the chargrilled lamb rib- eye. We share a laugh, remembering long-ago tears over uneaten vegetables and mealtimes that were once fraught with frustration and are now an eagerly anticipated experience. We are then regaled with the history of the San people – the original owners of the land, dating back to the Stone Age.
We set off to explore the Cederberg wilderness the next day, first on bikes and then by canoe, paddling on the water of a natural dam in search of ancient rock art sites. Our flight to Kruger International Airport is uneventful. Anticipation builds as we enter the Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve, and our conversation is centred on our first game drive and whether or not we’ll see all of the ‘Big Five’. Our driver yells, “Welcome to Sabi Sabi”, as he slows down to take in a leopard nonchalantly strolling down the road. One down, four to go.
Sabi Sabi Bush Lodge is a luxury home in the bush – its contemporary style celebrates Africa’s people, art and culture, with plenty of spaces to sit and enjoy the wildlife.
With my piece of paradise chosen and a glass of pinotage in hand, my gaze wanders to a waterhole as a giraffe stares right back at me, and a warthog casually ambles by. A sip or two later the lone giraffe, unseen by his ‘ tower’ of fellow giraffes, appears to hide as they pass by. During the course of my blissful hour of relaxation, I take in the natural behaviour of baboons, impalas, elephants and buffalo.
Bush Lodge is reminiscent of days gone by: high tea takes place each day at 3pm and is a refined ritual. Then there is the classic safari tradition known as ‘Sundowners’, whereby we stop under a marula tree each afternoon to take in the sunset as our safari vehicle turns into a bar. With G&Ts in hand, we watch in awe as the setting sun melts into the horizon.
Within 48 hours, we’re able to count off the Big Five (lion, elephant, buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros) and watch in disbelief as a hungry pride of young lions hunt down a buffalo. To our surprise, six brash male lions pounce on the unsuspecting buffalo, yet are no match for this seasoned beast, who vigorously shakes them off. To experience such an act of survival in the wild with Sam was priceless.
It’s very rewarding to find yourself on the other side of the teenage years, knowing you have a child who values and respects you as a person. Sam taught me to live the small moments – it’s not only the big moments that count. This journey enabled us to strengthen the bonds that bind us together; not just the bond of family, but the priceless bond of friendship that allows us to live a shared life.