SCOTLAND
It’s a wee drive from Edinburgh to Inverness. But those who meander will discover a pretty countryside, fabulous lodgings and a reinvigorated Scottish food scene.
A roadtrip reveals the majesty of Scotland.
It’s a gloriously sunny day, and we’re standing in the shadow of Edinburgh Castle watching a kiltclad piper playing Amazing Grace. When the wind starts to blow, he has to grab his tartan kilt with one hand while continuing to play with the other – much to the amusement of the onlookers, who laugh as they toss change and Mars Bars into his tam o’shanter on the ground.
Why Mars Bars? It seems some locals carry them around like they do umbrellas – but the mere suggestion battered Mars Bars are still a local favourite is met with utter disdain. Edinburgh is now a serious foodie city, with innovative chefs creating their own take on traditional Scottish dishes.
City stand- outs include Michelinstarred The Kitchin, plus Timberyard, set in an industrial- chic warehouse. Meanwhile, Cannonball offers great castle views and a fresh approach to Scottish favourites, and Ondine boasts an oyster happy hour that no seafood lover will want to miss.
Before our road trip, we head to The Dunstane Houses, a muchawarded boutique hotel set in two heritage buildings in the heart of the city. The chic Dunstane Suite is the perfect place to relax and enjoy sweeping views of distant hills.
We then head to the hotel’s Ba’ Bar to taste some of Scotland’s new artisan gins and whiskies. Daring guests can try the haggis bonbons with Glenkinchie single malt whisky.
The next day, we visit the city of Dundee – home of the new V&A Museum, which houses rich collections of Scottish design. We then spend the night at the Hotel Malmaison Dundee, which offers luxury accommodation in a restored heritage building.
Our next destination is the town of Aberfeldy on the River Tay in highland Perthshire, also known as ‘ big tree country’. The area is just beautiful, and Glenlyon is particularly impressive. The longest enclosed glen in Scotland, it stretches for 51km and forms part of the Loch Rannoch and Glen Lyon National Scenic Area.
After meandering across the region, we arrive at Ballintaggart Farm, where we’re warmly welcomed with coffee and Victoria sponge cake, followed by an Isle of Harris gin. For dinner, we enjoy juniper and game terrine, scrabster cod, Great Glen venison salami and rosemary gnocchi.
The nearby village of Grandtully is home to Iain Burnett’s The Highland Chocolatier, and we drop in to sample his world-famous velvet truffles. Next stop is Tay Forest Park, known for its scenic views and tall trees, and Blair Athol Distillery – one of Scotland’s oldest working distilleries.
We spend the night at beautiful Eagle Brae at Struy near Beauly – 30 minutes from Inverness in the depths of the Scottish Highlands. As soon as we arrive at the estate, we know we are in for an adventure. There’s plenty to do: fish in the stream; take a nature hike; try canoeing or go birdwatching. For dinner, we light the candles and dine on an in-house highland sausage casserole and fish pie. Later, we admire the moon over a wee dram of Scottish whisky in one hand and shortbread in the other. Highland bliss at its best.