CLEAN SCIENCE
Terri Vinson from SYNERGIE SKIN
Cosmetic chemist and founder of Synergie Skin, Terri Vinson answers your pressing beauty concerns.
What’s the best way to deal with blackheads?
Blackheads are open pores where trapped oil is visible at the surface. The solidified oil reacts with oxygen in the air (oxidises) and turns black. Short-term control of blackheads involves using a gentle scrub with small particles – large, jagged particles can damage and inflame the skin – to physically remove the surface oil. Blackheads may also be removed by extraction, but this should be done by a qualified skin therapist, as excessive squeezing can cause scarring. Other ways to control blackheads include mild acid exfoliation with AHAs (lactic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid). These will help unblock the pores and remove oil and debris. However, the blackheads will return unless the pore size and oil flow are reduced. The less oil produced in the pores, the less the pore is stretched and the lower the incidence of blackheads. Pore-minimising and oil-control ingredients such as Barosma betulina and Canadian Willowherb may help to prevent the occurrence of blackheads.
What are the white lumps under my eyes and what can I do to get rid of them?
Those tiny white bumps are called milia. Milia have nothing to do with acne and are an accumulation of a common protein found on our skin called keratin. This keratin becomes trapped just under the surface of the skin and is challenging to remove. Often milia will clear with time. However, stubborn milia can be removed with sterile needle extraction, chemical peels and laser therapy. Never try to lance milia at home as this may lead to infection or scarring. The best home- care ingredients to keep milia at bay are vitamin A (retinoids) and home-use AHAs (lactic acid) and BHAs (salicylic acid). If you are prone to milia, avoid rich eye creams and comedogenic facial products containing petroleum, beeswax, paraffin and lanolin.
How often do you have to clean your make- up brushes?
Assuming you don’t ever share your brushes, you should clean your concealer and foundation brushes weekly and all other brushes every two to three weeks. For on-the-go spot cleaning, opt for alcohol brush cleaners. Spray onto a tissue and gently wipe the brush until clean. For a more thorough clean, use warm water and a gentle baby soap. Keep the brush facing downwards so water doesn’t get trapped in the brush head. Wash your brushes until the water runs clear and rinse well to avoid skin irritation. Wipe the brushes with a soft towel then gently reshape them. Place the brushes over a benchtop so they can have a 360- degree airflow to dry. Never let your brushes dry upright as the water will ruin the brush head. Send your beauty questions to donna@mindfood.com