FROM HAIR ON
Joico international guest artistic director, Richard Mannah, takes a look into the future and shares his insights on where hair trends are headed.
What does the future look like for haircare?
Amazing product innovation in salon- professional haircare and colour… everything Joico is developing! Happy, healthy, shiny hair is always the goal for our salon client. I believe the future of haircare is all about natural ingredients, and at the same time preventing damage and maintaining healthy, gorgeous hair. We know many clients love to colour their hair but want to maintain its health at the same time.
What hair trends should we expect to see in the salon?
I see shorter, bob hairstyle shapes returning in 2019. Look at Irina Shayk and Charlize Theron for starters. Such trends usually start with celebrities and filter down to salons. These shapes are elegant and can be worn in many different ways.
Can you tell us about any new innovations we should expect to see from Joico in the coming months?
Joico has a rich history in hair reconstruction. Healthy hair is the foundation upon which the Joico brand was built more than 40 years ago. You might say that Joico are the experts in healthy hair. The next big thing from Joico is Defy Damage. I’m so excited to be part of this new, game- changing, luxury product category. It is truly going to change the way we protect hair, but also how we keep it looking its best long after the client leaves the salon.
Can you explain why is Joico’s new Defy Damage ProSeries such a game- changer?
More than 75 per cent of women believe their hair is damaged. As a hairdresser, I’d love to be able to change this. Defy Damage is a complete 360- degree hair protection system that starts in the salon with the ProSeries; a two- step, bond- protecting treatment. In particular, ProSeries Step 1 – the bond- protecting colour optimising spray – is a true innovation. It will help save time during colour and blow- dry services as well as making colour results look better while protecting the hair. The secret behind this true breakthrough is in the key ingredients: arginine, moringa seed oil, and a protective lipid. Beyond this we have our SmartRelease Technology – a one- of- a- kind liposome delivery system that packs a punch by providing a trifecta of healthy- hair ingredients – rose hip oil, arginine, and keratin – to repair, strengthen and protect hair from the cumulative effects of daily styling. The Defy Damage ProSeries contains a higher concentration of our new SmartRelease Technology.
Can you explain why the at- home component of Defy Damage is so important?
Most hair damage happens outside the salon, so to ensure that the client has everything they need to protect their hair from the daily sources of damage, Joico has developed a home care system that nobody should be without. We have the Protective Shampoo, which has a sulfate-free formula; and the Protective Conditioner, for instant bond strengthening and de-tangling. Then we recommend using the Protective Masque once or twice a week for a deeply nourishing bond replenisher that keeps colour looking fresh and vibrant. For complete damage prevention, the Protective Shield – a leave- in treatment applied to damp hair before you blow- dry – provides thermal and UV protection as well as defence from the damaging effects of pollution. This at- home care maintains your amazing in- salon results, priming your hair for best results during your next salon visit and making it easier for you to maintain happy, healthy hair! “The frustrating thing as a skincare specialist is that [at-home spa products] are not all created the same, and are not all equal. You need to choose wisely and with expert advice.”
BEAUTY FOR ALL
Last year saw diversity move from a mere buzzword into a legitimate business strategy for companies across every industry. The beauty world is far from immune to today’s call- out culture, and brands that only provide consumers with narrow product lines based on outdated beauty ideals will keep being challenged by consumers. Shade inclusivity and extensive lines of foundation are no longer just an afterthought – they’re a must-have for all beauty brands in 2019. “The trend for being seen as an individual is very prominent, and it transcends into our skincare,” says May-Harriott. Beauty is a highly empowering, personal tool, and beauty brands need to position themselves in a way that relates to an aware consumer. Newcomers to the scene, such as Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty (which launched in 2017 and features 50 shades of foundation), are paving the way to a more inclusive future.
IT’S PERSONAL
We all have unique skincare needs, and brands that continue to take a one- size-fits-all approach have no place in the future of beauty. “Culturally, as we move towards acceptance that beauty comes in all shapes, sizes and ages, we’ll see more skincare companies providing more innovative and personalised solutions,” says Katy Bacon, Murad’s Australasia Pacific education manager. “There is a shift away from the traditional ‘antiageing’ concepts of old. Consumers are looking towards companies to support the ‘beauty at any age’ belief that encourages self- care.”
Emma Hobson, education manager for Dermalogica Asia, Australia and New Zealand, says the demand for personalised beauty solutions is growing at an exponential rate. “This is driven by the consumer’s desire to be treated as an individual, not as a category. They’ll expect their make-up and skincare to be created and tailored to them on the spot. They’ll also expect their skincare treatments and home care to be completely bespoke to their very personal lifestyle needs,” she says. May-Harriott agrees, and says that skincare needs to keep up with the demands of a busy, tech-based lifestyle that’s centred around “me”. “We want products that will adapt to our day, hour by hour, as our skin changes. We need skincare products to adapt and keep up. No-one wants to ‘fit’ with the masses, we are demanding,” she says.
GET APPY
These days there’s a smartphone app for almost everything – and Dermalogica’s Hobson believes that it’s only a matter of time before we become more dependent on our devices to keep our skincare routine in check. “In the future there will be more digital engagement with your skincare brand, more innovative tools for you to keep you connected with your skin’s needs,” Hobson explains. Apps and tools that are able to assess your environment and analyse how it affects your skin health on a daily or even hourly basis could be just around the corner, according to Hobson.
“Cannabis is taking its place as one of nature’s powerful ingredients.”
KATY BACON
The days of wondering whether your skincare routine is actually making a difference could be a thing of the past, too. Hobson believes that in the future we will be able to rely on monitoring systems to track how our skin is changing and improving with the use of skincare products and professional treatments.
BIGGER, BETTER, FASTER, STRONGER, SAFER
Skincare scientists are continuing to find better delivery systems and new ways for us to maintain skin health, states Rosi Fernandez, the managing director of La Prairie Australia and New Zealand. “Consumers want everything to be faster and better,” Fernandez explains – and thanks to continued research, our wishes could be granted in the near future.
Dermalogica’s Hobson believes skincare essentials such as vitamin C and retinol will remain a key focus within skincare innovations. “What formulating scientists are working on are even better ways to use the most active part of any ingredient – along with more effective carrier systems that enable the ingredients to have
a high rate of potency, and deliver them to the exact part of the skin … they aim to target,” she explains. Last year saw the launch of Elizabeth Arden’s innovative take on retinol. By combining nourishing ceramides with retinol in the Retinol Ceramide Capsules Line Erasing Night Serum, the side effects often associated with retinol use are greatly minimised.
INNOVATIVE INGREDIENTS
“Cannabis is currently one of the most discussed and trending ingredients for many skincare brands, as cannabis sativa seed oil (CBD) finds its place in mainstream beauty,” says Murad’s Bacon. As scientists do more research into CBD’s benefits, Bacon says that we can expect to see it become a real skincare star. “The popularity behind this powerful ingredient is driven by consumer demand for more natural cures for both internal and external ailments. Cannabis is rightly taking its place as one of nature’s most powerful ingredients, treating everything from pain, anxiety, inflammation, stress and skin ageing though to joint pain.”
In the future we’ll also see more native ingredients used in skincare – and some beauty brands are already unlocking the potential of indigenous botanical ingredients. The founder of Australian skincare brand Biologi, Ross Macdougald, turned to Kakadu plum, Davidson plum, and finger lime as the star ingredients of his skincare range. “We work with indigenous communities and small local growers so the production supports the local communities too,” Macdougald says. He adds that while he selected the botanicals because he wanted to hero Australian natives that really work, being conscious of Biologi’s footprint on the earth was imperative too.
TECH PROTECTION
“We’ve been filtering out UV rays for decades, and filtering out airborne pollution for a few years,” explains MECCA’s Stanley. “Now we’re also going to see a range of products that help filter out the blue light emitted by our phones, tablets, laptops and TVs.”
“We’ve already seen ‘ tech neck’ from hunching over devices; ‘tech eye’ – eye strain and rapid crow’s feet acceleration – increased frown lines from computer-- screen staring; and accelerated melanin production from infra-red, heat, and blue light from devices,” explains Engelman. While 2018 saw a steady rise in skincare products that fend off blue light, Stanley predicts we’ll see an even wider array of options available in future – including foundations that guard our skin from our perennially switched- on lifestyle.
GOOD GENES
From pollution to UV rays, our DNA and our skin are constantly under attack, says May-Harriott. But the future could hold the solution, with DNA-based protection and genetic skincare evolving all the time. “The advances in the last five years are incredible in the beauty industry, and technology is moving fast,” says May-Harriott. “We make DNA repair enzymes in the skin in order to protect and put out the danger of attack. But sometimes it simply cannot keep up with the demand of all this damage – environment, technology, free radical production.” May-Harriott says when DNA is under attack, it shows up as aged or unhealthy skin. “We need to make sure we assist this natural DNA repair enzyme process in our skincare products if we are going to help the skin maintain excellent health.”
Skincare that takes our genetics into consideration means a more personalised approach. “We will customise to the individual … not put people into ‘skin type’ boxes, but allow bespoke home- care routines to every consumer,” she says.