ASK THE EXPERT
Terri Vinson from SYNERGIE SKIN
Cosmetic chemist and founder of Synergie Skin, Terri Vinson, answers your questions on exfoliating.
WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF AN EXFOLIATOR?
Our skin is a wonderful factory that constantly churns out new cells. In fact, we create a whole new skin surface every few weeks. Exfoliation is the removal of the dead skin cells that cling to the skin’s surface and in the pores – and it is a vital, natural process when it comes to the health of our skin. Our skin is programmed to exfoliate naturally, and normal skin cells renew every 20-30 days. However, as we age, this process becomes quite sluggish, and we end up with rough, patchy and dull skin with dead cells. That said, acne sufferers have the opposite problem. Their skin cells reproduce too quickly, and many of these new cells become trapped in the pores. Mix these dead cells with oil and top it up with P.Acnes bacteria and you have a pimple.
If our natural processes of exfoliation are disrupted, we need to rely on good skincare to help improve our skin. Exfoliation also removes clusters of sun-damaged skin cells and helps to unclog the pores and clarify acneic skin.
WHAT ARE THE VARIOUS TYPES OF EXFOLIATORS, AND HOW DO THEY DIFFER?
There are three main types of exfoliants:
Chemical Exfoliants: These are usually available in the form of serums. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) such as lactic acid remove dead surface cells and help improve our natural moisture levels. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) such as salicylic acid help to unclog pores and reduce irritation. I’d advise staying away from glycolic acid, as it can be more irritating. Opt for gentler, hydrating lactic acid in combination with salicylic acid for decongesting the pores.
Physical Exfoliants: These exfoliants are scrubbing agents that physically remove dead surface cells. There are many materials used for physical exfoliation, such as walnut husks, coffee grinds and sugar. But one of the best physical scrub agents, in my opinion, is aluminium oxide crystals – the material used in microdermabrasion machines.
These crystals do a fantastic job removing surface roughness and dead skin build-up, particularly around the T-zone. But it is important not to scrub too vigorously, as this can damage the delicate skin and may cause fine blood vessels to become visible. Chemical Peels: Peels produce a higher-level exfoliation and should only be performed by a skin therapist. A well-executed peel series will reveal a smooth, revitalised texture through resurfacing the skin. Generally, those who suffer from acne, congestion, blackheads, sun damage and fine lines will benefit from peels. But there isn’t a one-size-fits-all approach, so consult with your skin therapist who can recommend the best peel series for you.
• For details on how often each skin type should exfoliate, visit mindfood.com/exfoliation-tips
• Send beauty questions to donna@mindfood.com