WHERE EVERYBODY KNOWS YOUR NAME
It’s not often that you go travelling but still feel right at home. Silversea’s newly refurbished Silver Whisper is small enough to feel like family, yet expansive enough to satisfy your every whim. Mary de Ruyter received a warm welcome and enjoyed the s
A first-class crossing of the Tasman.
It felt like starting at a new school halfway through term. Everybody already knew each other, and knew their way around. On my first night aboard the refurbished Silver Whisper, several people asked, “Hey, you’re new. Have you been hiding in your cabin for the past month?”
But their genuine interest, plus the attention of the ultra-considerate staff, meant that I quickly began to feel like one of the gang. And that’s a large part of why people return to Silversea, an Italian-founded luxury cruise operator.
I’d joined Silver Whisper for just a short hop from Auckland to Sydney, during its 133-day ‘Tale of Tales’
world cruise from San Francisco to London. Approximately 220 passengers signed up for the entire trip, many of them return world cruisers. And boy, were they happy with their all-inclusive lot!
I lost count of the number of passengers who went out of their way to rave about the superlative service and club-like atmosphere.
“This is the sweet spot: it’s got all the facilities without the crowds,” confided one to me.
Silver Whisper, originally launched in 2000 and carrying a maximum of 388 passengers, went through a substantial refit in December 2018. New carpets, curtains, furniture, mattresses, gym equipment and outdoor decking reflect the décor and understated elegance of Silversea’s flagship, Silver Muse. Out went the maroon, gold and autumnal shades – except in the show lounge, which retains its theatrical atmosphere. Now, shades of cream, taupe, blue, and a fresh minty-teal create a light, spacious ambience, extending all the way to the butler-serviced suites.
As the sun’s last rays slid through Auckland’s skyline and across the deck, I dined poolside at The Grill.
There you cook prime meats, seafood or vegetarian options on a volcanic rock heated to 260°C. Juicy Argentinian prawns went particularly
This is the sweet spot, it’s got all the facilities without the crowds
well with a pinot noir. A hint for rookies, though: only add a little oil to the stone or you’ll soon smoke out your neighbours.
Elsewhere, La Terrazza’s authentic Italian dishes reflect its ‘slow food’ focus: the potato gnocchi with fresh sage deserves a shoutout. La Dame, an intimate, French fine-dining nook, serves a Relais & Châteaux-designed menu.
Seafood was a highlight. Mussels and white king salmon from Auckland Fish Market were cooked in front of us for lunch by the pool; another day, it was yellowfin tuna, or silky bigeye with crispy skin.
One night, I joined a group dining with cruise director Fernando at The Restaurant. Innovatively presented Ars Italica Oscietra caviar, meltingly tender Black Angus carpaccio, grilled lobster – I was in foodie heaven. Then I clocked my neighbour’s strawberry crème brûlée. Served in a wide, shallow bowl rather than a ramekin, it amplified the best thing about a brûlée: its sugary-crunchy crust. “The food presentation and quality has gone up a notch,” said my neighbour, yet another contented return cruiser, “and this is a prime example.”
New canopies stretch like a seabird’s wing over the balconies outside La Terrazza and the Panorama Lounge. Watching the ship’s wake bubble and froth while feasting on La Terrazza’s magnificent buffet became a daily delight. One level up, the Panorama Lounge drew tea fans for darjeeling, assam, oolong, and patisserie perfection on Art Deco-style stands each afternoon. Most impressive were the floating islands – poached meringues so soft it seemed only the pastry chef’s willpower held them together.
In the show lounge, Australian guitarist Vincenzo Martinelli wove webs of Latin and Spanish sounds. A former Concorde pilot’s lectures offered a rare window into the excitement of that world.
Often, entertainment was served up with champagne, even at the 11.15am Sweet Farewell cooking demonstration. Chef David and pastry chef Sebastian prepared a lemon drizzle bundt cake, and a tropical fruit pavlova – complete with jokes about which country can rightfully claim ownership of it.
When wellness called, Zagara Beauty Spa answered, with Elemis Biotec facials, massages, body polishes and wraps (the lime and ginger scrub was refreshingly zingy), nail treatments, and more. The spa also offers small sauna and steam rooms.
Silversea is a regular winner of luxury cruise, small ship and expedition cruise awards. They are embarking on a fleet-wide project to create a plastic-free onboard environment over the next few years.
Two nights before arriving in Sydney, Captain Cataldo Destefano gave a farewell address for those leaving the ship. Then, as Tina Turner’s ‘Simply the Best’ played, what seemed like the entire ship’s crew walked down the aisle to the stage. Waiters, deckhands, entertainers, chefs, staff from the bar, spa, reception, engine, bridge. Was there anyone still running the ship? Some passengers waved enthusiastically to their favourite crew.
It felt a little cheesy, like a pep rally. But, I realised, the staff must work pretty hard to present a fivestar experience at sea. They deserved applause. The Observation Lounge was humming at 6am as we crowded, bleary-eyed, to witness our arrival into Sydney Harbour. Waiters circulated, offering mimosas. Moored at Circular Quay was a cruise ship holding close to 5,000 people. My cruise-mates were united in their joy at not being on a vessel of that size.
A Scottish fellow traveller summed it up best: “Walking into the bar and having the bartender ask you, ‘The usual?’ Well, it makes you feel a bit special.”
www.silversea.com