ASK THE EXPERT
Terri Vinson from SYNERGIE SKIN
Cosmetic chemist and founder of Synergie Skin, Terri Vinson answers your pressing beauty concerns.
When and how should you use a serum?
Serums are much more readily absorbed than moisturisers. They are usually lighter in texture and exist in water-based or oil-based products. Thus, serums represent a method for the concentrated delivery of cosmeceutical ingredients that target specific skin conditions. When it comes to skincare, you should always start with your lightest product – which means your serums should be applied before you moisturise. Serums should not replace moisturisers – quality serums are all about the delivery of active ingredients in concentrated doses, while moisturisers work to ‘lock in’ these serums. They also increase skin hydration and protect from environmental damage. When it comes to choosing a serum, select one based on your needs.
Fine line reduction: Vitamin A, vitamin C & collagenstimulating peptides
Congested, acne-prone skin: Lactic acid and salicylic acid, vitamin A and vitamin B3
Pigmentation: Vitamin A, vitamin B3, vitamin C Dehydrated skin: Hyaluronic acid
How can I prevent my skin drying out in winter?
Stay UV Protected – Even though UVB (burning) rays are not as intense in winter, ageing and deeply penetrating UVA rays are still intense and can penetrate glass and clouds. UVA is also responsible for causing skin cancers, so it is important to use a broad spectrum sun protection. Preferably choose skincare and make-up with a minimum of 20 per cent zinc oxide to give optimal UV protection during the day. Hydrate Inside & Out – Central heating, temperature extremes and cold winds can play havoc with your skin, and lead to it drying out and cracking. It is really important to use serums and moisturisers with high levels of hydrators such as hyaluronic acid – which binds 1,000 times its weight in water – and high-quality, non-clogging oils (such as olive squalene, shea butter, macadamia oil and sea buckthorn oil) to prevent moisture loss.
Winter Exfoliation – Exfoliation is still necessary in winter, but be gentle as your natural cell processes may be slightly slower in the colder weather. Remember not to excessively exfoliate or overuse harsh scrubs.
Is laser hair removal safe on the face? I’ve heard it can cause pigmentation.
The intense heat produced during IPL and laser hair removal may cause a condition called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). Those with darker skin tones need to be careful when pursuing laser or IPL treatments, as their skin is more prone to PIH. Ensure your therapist uses appropriate settings during the treatment, or ask if they can suggest alternative hair-reduction treatments. Clients should also use products that help prevent PIH occurring. Using ingredients like vitamin A, vitamin B3 and certain pigment-inhibiting peptides (such as oligopeptide-34) at least two weeks before each treatment is recommended.