FUTURE OF SKIN
From artificial intelligence, ‘virtual’ try-ons, portable home devices and gene editing – not to mention the most advanced formulations on the market ever – today’s high-tech skincare is addressing the needs of tomorrow.
Today’s advanced formulations and high-tech products are meeting the needs of today as well as tomorrow.
From technology to gene editing, the beauty industry is undergoing its own makeover. We take a look at the new trends and breakthroughs shaping the industry in 2020.
HUGE GROWTH IN TECH
Technology is playing a starring role in all industries, and beauty is no exception. CB Insights’ Industry Analyst Consensus shows the global beauty devices market is a massive growth area, with technologies including augmented reality (AR), artificial intelligence (AI) and home devices continuing to make the beauty product life cycle more efficient, effective and personalised. “Technology-driven tools have revolutionised the beauty industry and the way consumers interact with products in their daily beauty regimes,” says Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8. “Technologies are creating a new normal, where smart mirrors can offer personalised beauty advice, or a simple selfie can analyse your skin health.”
Terri Vinson, founder of Synergie Skin, agrees. “Beauty tech definitely has a role. However, the technology must be evidence-based and have passed all clinical trials before being released into the market. There are so many gimmicks out there. I recommend consumers do their research and ensure the device has certifications and is authorised for use in the Australian market.”
“WE WILL SEE SKINCARE ROUTINES AS PROACTIVE RATHER THAN REACTIVE.” TERRI VINSON
Synergie’s Plabeau G4+ is a home care skin device using plasma technology to rejuvenate the skin and increase activity of active skincare ingredients. “Plabeau employs non-invasive, cool and painless plasma technology to break down air particles into active plasma ions at a rate of 1 billion ions per second,” says Vinson.
“It’s the world’s first portable beauty device with plasma technology delivering six clinically proven benefits for the skin, including boosting collagen.”
AR and AI, in the form of the ‘virtual try-on’, became more widely adopted in the beauty industry in 2015 when Perfect Corp. entered the market. More than 800 million app downloads later, the AR and AI tech applications continue to change the way people try out and buy beauty products. This technology works for both the consumer and the beauty brands by combining augmented reality and computer vision. It lets shoppers virtually test out different looks, while simultaneously collecting behavioural data for brands.
Brands are also focusing on evidence-based skin analysis and developing mechanisms to improve skin health over time. Synergie has released SkinGeneius, a DNA test that examines 16 genetic markers associated with skin wellness and ageing. Following a 10-second DNA saliva test, Synergie Skin’s certified lab provide you with a personalised report, identifying your skin’s genetic risks in six categories such as skin firmness and collagen; wrinkling and sugar glycation; solar damage protection; tone and brightness; antioxidant levels; and inflammation and skin sensitivities.
Vinson says she launched SkinGeneius because it is an opportunity for her customers to create a totally personalised outline of their skin’s unique genetic profile.
“From this scientific report they can understand their own genetic strengths and also understand ways to defend their skin from sun damage, inflammation and future ageing. We will see skin care routines as proactive rather than reactive.”
THE QUEST TO REPAIR AND ENHANCE AGEING SKIN
Last year the American Association Of Retired Persons (AARP) released a survey saying beauty brands are missing the industry’s broadening audience by focussing their marketing so heavily on young females. The AARP survey reports that more than 70 per cent of adults say they are more likely to buy from brands whose marketing feature people who are a mix of ages, with women aged 40+ wanting to see more beauty products targeting perimenopausal and menopausal women.
“As women approach menopause there is a gradual change in their levels of estrogen, progesterone, DHEA and testosterone,” says Vinson. “This change will affect the entire body and the skin is no exception.” She says the main changes with menopause include bone loss in the skull (resulting in sagging of facial skin); loss of estrogen, which impacts collagen and elastin; and the loss of skin support and elasticity, which leads to sagging and wrinkles.
She also adds “thinning of the surface skin due to reduced blood circulation, collagen and water loss; drier skin, which is more prone to flaking and damage; and slower healing of the skin”.
Vinson says there is evidence that using specific cosmeceuticals can help to address menopausal ageing. These include isoflavonerich botanicals, certain peptides and antioxidants. “My favourite is vitamin C as it is so important to protect our skin from damage from the sun, pollution and other free radicals that can attack menopausal skin cells. Other great antioxidants include green tea, white tea and lycopene from tomatoes.”
Medik8’s Isaacs also recommends vitamin C. “Just use vitamin C plus sunscreen by day, vitamin A by night. If you follow our simple advice, we believe you can look 40 when you’re 50. Well formulated, stabilised vitamin C provides the all-important antioxidant protection as well as helps plump the skin. Applying in the morning provides an all-day urban shield against everyday environmental factors.”
GENE EDITING COULD PLAY A BIG ROLE IN BEAUTY.
Vinson recommends that it’s also worth considering taking additional supplements during menopause.
“A clinical trial suggests taking supplements rich in soy bioflavonoids, fish protein, white tea, grape seed, lycopene, vitamin C, vitamin E and zinc had a significant impact in wrinkles around the forehead, eyes and mouth and also resulted in increased density and thickness of menopausal skin.”
PROBIOTICS AND PREBIOTICS
While beauty supplements aren’t a new concept, companies are increasingly offering vitamins and supplements as part of their skincare range with beauty benefits such as clearer skin and stronger hair. Collagen supplements are particularly popular, with a report by Grand View Research projecting the global collagen market to reach $US6.6 billion by 2025.
Conversely, what are traditionally supplement ingredients are now being used in skincare products. The rising focus on the microbiome in particular has led to the development of probiotics-powered skincare.
“The area of probiotics and prebiotics in skincare first piqued my interest about three years ago,” says Vinson. “This new area of research is based on the importance of balancing bacteria on the surface of our skin. Just like gut health, the correct balance of good and bad bacteria is essential for overall skin health. It’s all about combining the prebiotics (specific plant based carbohydrates such as inulin) that feed the only good bacteria and not the ‘bad guys’, with probiotics (pieces of good bacteria) that provide the best environment for the skin surface to flourish.”
Vinson says this prebiotic/ probiotic skincare category is a “real game changer for sensitive skin and those prone to irritation”.
“It has also had some excellent results for reducing the inflammation from acne, psoriasis, general skin inflammation and eczema.
“There is also a notable improvement in skin texture with a more luminous quality to the skin. I believe that everyone needs a good quality pre/probiotic serum to start their daily skincare routine.”
The relationship between health and beauty is getting closer with fitness brands moving into ‘athleisure beauty’. Lululemon launched a personal care brand for post-work-out products that included a dry shampoo and face moisturiser. Clinique has also launched work-out-specific products focussed on controlling sweat.
GENETIC ENGINEERING
CRISPR’s gene editing technology, while still only in its early stage, could play a bigger role in beauty ingredient production in the future.
“CRISPR is truly at the frontier of genetic engineering,” says Vinson. “It is a scientific technique that enables genetic scientist to make precision cuts to human DNA. It is like a sat nav with scissors in a molecule.
“It is a sequence of molecules derived from bacterial cells, that can target and bind to a specific part of undesirable DNA. The CRISPR molecule then cuts out the part of the DNA that is faulty or needs changing and insert the desirable sequence of molecules that will repair or improve the function of the cells.”
Vinson explains how CRISPR could play a role in the future of skincare ingredient technology.
“Looking into the crystal ball of the future, CRISPR could be programmed to target specific genetic traits such as psoriasis, eczema, rosacea, skin immunity disorders, susceptibility to sun damage, susceptibility to melanoma and even premature skin ageing.”
She warns that before we embark on this journey into the future of preventative skin care, there is still much research that needs to be done. “There are many rogue companies springing up in the internet, offering CRISPR technology to end users for a variety of genetic disorders. This is highly unethical and extremely dangerous. Scientists must ensure the safety of humanity above all else.”
THE RISE OF CLEAN BEAUTY
Like technology, sustainability is now also a key concern for all industries.
While there has been much focus on reducing toxins and harmful ingredients in beauty products in the past, ‘clean’ beauty going forward will be not just about what’s in products, but also how products are produced and packaged. Plastic packaging is a huge generator of landfill waste, with the US Environmental Protection Agency stating that as much as 70 per cent of the plastic waste generated by the beauty industry isn’t recycled.
Data from the Zero Waste Week campaign also revealed that more than 120 billion units of cosmetic packaging are produced annually, the majority of which are non-recyclable. “Synergie Skin is adopting a clean science approach to our packaging as well as what is inside the bottle,” says Vinson. Some of its initiatives include using recyclable glass and plastic bottles for its products; offering muslin exfoliating cloths as a green alternative to wasteful facial wipes; using recyclable cardboard boxes and labels for all their products; and banning all bubble wrap in their posted deliveries. “Instead we have discovered a new type of paper wrapping and packaging filler to protect our products in transit without using plastic ... and a new 100 per cent compostable delivery bag.”
Sustainability is also an important issue for Isaacs. “Environmental responsibility is at the very heart of Medik8. That is why we are continually committed to minimising our environmental footprint at every opportunity and making sustainable decisions in every field of our business.” He says that a key area of focus for the brand is its packaging.
“Our cartons are made from sustainably-sourced FSC mixed packaging – that is, from ‘wellmanaged woodland and recycled fibre’. During our 2018 retail range refresh, we also removed all plastic inserts from our products. We use glass bottles wherever possible; which are of course recyclable, but are also made from 40 per cent recycled glass.”
Isaacs says personalised skincare can also help reduce our carbon footprints. “We personalise everything in our life from our style to our diet – and the same should be applied to skincare.
“It can help simplify skincare for many, and can drive a sustainable initiative for a ‘buy less, buy better’ mentality, shrinking lengthy beauty regimes down to functional and results-driven products only.”