CRYSTAL CRUISES
All is calm, all is bright as Ewan McDonald sails down the Danube, ‘the river that connects Europe’, to experience the magical Christmas markets of Salzburg, Vienna and Budapest.
Experience magic sailing the Danube.
Angels. Elves. Reindeer. Stars. Trees ... each ornament dripping with snowflakes, sparkling in whites and blues, carved from wood, blown from glass. Plus the heady scents of hot, spiced wine and the lusty tang of grilled sausages in the early dark afternoon.
I’m in Passau, where Germany shakes hands with Austria, one of those medieval European cities seen in picture-books – or, these days, a YouTube video. Pastel-yellow buildings, cobbled squares, winding lanes, a vast and gorgeous cathedral. The Old City has the feel of a ship rising from these waters where three rivers meet.
Tonight, that’s what I’ll be doing. I’m boarding the Crystal Mahler for a seven-night cruise along the Danube, through Austria into Hungary, sampling Christmas markets big and small, ancient and modern.
River cruising is one of the best ways to experience Europe, particularly if you don’t want the hassle of driving on the wrong side of the road or feel flummoxed by the fine print of railway timetables. Ships are small, limited by the locks they must pass through: here, it’s 114 passengers and 85 crew. Pace is leisurely: mostly, they sail in late evening and moor before breakfast, allowing maximum time for sightseeing. Usually, they berth in the middle of town (expert tip: remember this before opening the curtains).
River cruising is placid. No rocking, no rolling. River cruising is calm. No kids, no casinos.
WHEN IN SALZBURG...
Today’s lunch is punsch, the Yuletide liqueur that can pack one, and lebkuchen – ‘gingerbread’ that doesn’t contain ginger. Lots of other spices, though.
If you were to go to only one Christmas market, this might well be it. Wrapping around the cathedral and squares of the World Heritage-listed Old City, it’s one of the oldest. Advent markets have been staged here since the 15th century. More than 100 stalls sell food, handcrafted ornaments, ceramics, kitsch (if that’s a German word), dirndls and lederhosen. Young families and old folk flock into the squares every afternoon in December. Around a corner, boys jink and jostle on a massive, temporary outdoor skating-rink.
Music, for this is Mozartburg and ‘Silent Night’ was composed just up the valley. Oh, and that Julie Andrews movie. It doesn’t cut much ice with the locals, funnily enough.
We moored this morning in Linz, and this full-day trip is a good example of Crystal’s approach to shore excursions. It’s complimentary: there’s at least one free trip in most ports. The line uses its own coaches, which follow the ship, and local guides; no timewasting hanging around on the jetty. Itineraries are divided into categories with choices in each port tailored to
interests such as Cultural Discoveries or Tantalizing Gastronomy (like to eat at a Michelin-star restaurant and stay onshore overnight? No problem). Guests can design days out with the concierge’s help.
Each voyage highlights a complimentary Signature Event – privileged access to a castle, palace, monastery or gallery with a musical performance included.
OLD-WORLD ELEGANCE
We arrived in Vienna around 9am, after an overnight cruise. Sometime in the wee smalls I’d awoken with the feeling that I was going down several floors in a lift.
Opened the curtains and peered into the dark. Apprehension became excitement. We were passing through a lock, gigantic bathtubs where the ship is gently and safely taken to a lower river level. Ever the nerd, I threw on clothes, rushed to the deck, camera in hand, to gawp at this modern realisation of ancient technology.
For one of European civilisation’s most elegant cities, Vienna’s river port is distinctly utilitarian. No matter, my coach awaited and we crawled through the city’s traffic at roughly the same pace as the emperor’s carriage to Schönbrunn Palace.
Through war, marriages and financial clout, Austria’s Habsburg whānau dominated a continent for centuries, its influence stretching from Spain to wherever it wanted, and this summer bach was the ultimate expression of its power.
Each voyage includes a complimentary cultural event.
Guide at our side, we wandered bedroom, meeting-room, dining-room and my lady’s chamber before light fell and we joined crowds thronging the courtyard for mulled wine and ginger- ... oh, you’ve heard that story.
Back to the ship to shower and change for the Signature Event. Board the coach to Belvedere Palace, another World Heritage site, for a private, up-very-close viewing of the works of two of Austria’s lauded artists: Klimt’s gilded, shimmering portraits and the austere, unsettling observations of Egon Schiele.
Into a magnificent 19th-century salon for a concert by the Schönbrunn Chamber Orchestra and guests: violins, cellos, piano, opera singers, waltzettes. There was Mozart. We oohed. There was Strauss. We aahed. There was Beethoven, for he did his best works in this city. Lucky Beethoven.
We’re lucky, too. We have two days in Vienna, time to wander the boulevards, drink in the cafés, snack on a schnitzel (half a schnitzel, they’re huge) for lunch.
The main Christmas market is at the Town Hall, or Rathaus, a wonderful name for an assembly of politicians. It’s a Disneyland that Walt could never have imagined: row upon row of magical stalls, light shows in trees, a miniature railway, an iceskating rink that winds through the garden paths, and wide-eyed children. If you were to go to only two Christmas markets, Schönbrunn and Vienna might well be them.
Day five. Or six. I’ve lost count. But today is not like the others, for we are sailing from Vienna to Budapest and will not arrive there until noon or later. Time to take in the views and the shipboard experience.
Think about a European river and you might think about the Rhine or the Loire, a castle or cliff-hugging vineyard around every bend. This river is different; broad, fast-flowing. It’s winter, so the riverside is bare trees, sandy banks, brown-green water. So much for the (ahem) Blue Danube.
From time to time a village drifts past, church and houses and shops and streets mere metres away. Some more metres to misty hills. On riverside paths, we see joggers, lovers, fishers, dogwalkers and campers.
It snowed here last week and I would have liked to see whiteencrusted riverbanks, steeples and streets. It would have felt like Europe at Christmas, deep and crisp and even. It’s dry and warm. I don’t need the puffer jacket or beanie packed at home. Suspect the locals are not as disappointed as me.
What am I enjoying about my time on board? My stateroom is large, luxurious, well-appointed. Floor-toceiling windows give uninterrupted views of the slowly passing countryside. Bed, linen, bathroom are impeccable, the staff can’t do enough to help.
Dining is gobsmacking. In the main dining room – the Waterside – staff aim and achieve Michelin quality. Service is personable, pace is neither rushed nor slow.
Each evening’s menu includes chef’s recommendation for a starter, soup, mains and dessert. The main is influenced by local cuisine, presented in a modern way.