SILVERSEA CRUISES
A leisurely cruise from Auckland to Sydney on board the Silver Muse promises a different kind of Christmas – where fine dining, sunset caviar and champagne and picturesque island encounters are the order of the day.
A leisurely cruise from Auckland to Sydney promises a different kind of Christmas.
“SANTA EVEN ARRIVES WITH GIFTS FOR THE KIDS ON BOARD.”
Iam half expecting an encounter with a mythical hobbit as we weave our way along a magical, mystical trail on Stewart Island, the third and most southerly of New Zealand’s main islands. Nature’s work stars here in every shade of green imaginable, from neon lime to sage, olive, emerald and teal. Hemmed by giant trees with twisted branches covered in lichens and thick overgrowth, daylight is filtered. The eerie silence is punctured by shrill birdsong every so often.
Spongy moss fringes the dirt trail and we pass massive ferns with tightly sprung young fronds slowly unfurling. I’m told they are called fiddleheads because they resemble a violin scroll.
It’s just a short walk, but one of the most beautiful, leaving some lasting memories of this far-flung island. Known officially as Stewart Island/ Rakiura, this wilderness haven is home to Rakiura National Park and lies 30 kilometres from the South Island.
We tackle a steep climb to the Observation Point, passing pretty gardens where foxgloves bloom and are rewarded with stunning views over the surrounding islands and sheltered bays with boats bobbing around in blue waters. The island is one of the picturesque ports on a 14-day Silversea Muse Christmas and New Year cruise beginning in Auckland and finishing in Sydney, covering 2,886 nautical miles. Ports include Tauranga, Picton, Lyttelton, Oban, Burnie, and Melbourne. Unfortunately, we miss Doubtful and Milford Sounds as the weather doesn’t oblige.
It’s a full house aboard the all-suite ship, with 596 guests indulging in all-inclusive luxury complete with butler service. Passengers include 179 Australians and 63 New Zealanders and with crew, more than 100 nations are represented. If you’ve ever wondered what it’s like to spend Christmas Day on a ship, far away from home, it can be summed up in one word – fabulous. No shopping, no cooking and no dishes, just lots of spoiling from our affable butler, Chris.
Nothing is too much trouble for Chris, who delivers complimentary sustainable ARS Italica caviar and chilled champagne every evening which we enjoy on our private verandah as the sun sets.
Silver Muse has a total of eight different restaurants.
One night I ask for an extra pillow. “A memory foam, a buckwheat pillow or Tiara collection with hidden pockets for scent sachets?” he asks, pleased we have made at least one request. He sets in motion a pillow merry-go-round, trying a different one each night.
Our suite features understated décor and rich furnishings, a spacious walk-in wardrobe and smart marblelook ensuite with a bath and separate shower. At the press of a button, movies or news stations appear on the wall mirrors, and the bed with those pillows, is simply heavenly.
It’s the little things and attention to detail that impress me on this cruise that’s under the command of Captain Alessandro Zanello, who joined the Silversea stable in 1999. Yuletide is celebrated with all the trimmings – Christmas trees are dressed to the nines on each deck and elaborate gingerbread houses with trays of Christmas cookies nearby prove tempting. Santa even arrives in the Panorama Lounge with gifts for the children on board. New Year’s Eve is just as special, with the countdown to 2020 under bright moonlight
accompanied by dancing as well as a table piled high with irresistible chocolate desserts.
Dining is a culinary adventure on Silver Muse and it’s all about stamina with eight restaurants to choose from plus 24-hour room service. Whether it’s casual dining on deck with new friends or a formal romantic dinner for two, all whims are catered for. The complimentary wine list features 50 to 70 labels, including more regional options. Executive chef, Australian Grant Chilcott is responsible for the fabulous menus and ensuring the freshest of produce. He began cooking at the age of 16 and worked at five-star hotels and small fine dining restaurants, joining Silversea in 2013.
CLASSIC DINING WITH A TWIST
The star of the culinary show is the intimate French-themed La Dame, named after the Eiffel Tower aka ‘La Dame’, which attracts a US$60 surcharge. Think chic contemporary décor, crisp white table linen and eclectic tableware, plus polished silver service and a bespoke menu.
Classic French dishes are given a contemporary twist. I start with St Jacques des Pauvres – tasty scallops with carrot purée, fennel and coriander seeds, juniper berries, quail egg, purple potatoes and orange segments, followed by lobster tail with truffled leeks and a green pea jus. To refresh the palate, an iced Menton lemon sorbet arrives, followed by a decadent Grand Marnier Soufflé with lemon sauce. Champagne flows and wines are matched to each dish. There are two sittings at 6pm and 9pm and it’s quickly booked out.
Another highlight is the Japanese Kaiseki restaurant which also attracts a US$60 fee. Teppanyaki features here, followed by dishes that look like a work of art with meticulous preparation and presentation. There’s no charge at lunchtime with sushi, sashimi and raw Asian-inspired dishes on the menu.
But my favourite is the intimate and oh-so-chic Silver Note that pays homage to the traditional jazz clubs of Manhattan with fabulous pianist, Andre and singer, Helene, who is a smooth balladeer.
My ‘beehive’ starter – so named because of the plate design, features saku tuna, Chilean sea bass, tiger prawns, veal tartare, asparagus tips, beef carpaccio, avocado purée and an eggshell filled with scrambled eggs and topped with caviar. Buttered Maine lobster tail with mash and lemon butter is the best lobster on the ship and the finale of white chocolate mousse is unbeatable.
The Asian-inspired restaurant Indochine is also popular and for casual dinner head to the outdoor The Grill/Hot Rocks that features lava stone cooking. For pizza and gelato, try Spaccanapoli on Deck 11.
For good coffee and a light snack, head to the Arts Café, while the elegant Atlantide restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
Expect designer dishes such as royal crab, blue lobster and Verbenainfused red snapper in a sea salt crust, showcased alongside the best steaks and slick service.
If you love Italian, La Terrazza offers a great evening menu starting with an antipasto platter, traditional dishes and finales of tiramisu and other indulgent sweets.
With so many temptations, it’s no wonder I pound the jogging track daily, while others head to the well-equipped gym or Pilates and stretch classes.
SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE
The ship’s Daily Chronicle lists the activities from sunrise to sunset each day. Fancy table tennis, cards, trivia, golf putting or craft classes? There are also enrichment lectures with experts such as Laurel Corona who tells of the lives of Australian convict women, while photographer Reed Kaestner shares his skills and tips on how to take successful wildlife photos. What I love most are the quiet spaces around the ship including the Tors Observation
Lounge which has a well-stocked library and ringside seats to the bow, or a sun lounge poolside. My favourite hideaway is the jacuzzi on Deck 10 which is often overlooked and rarely crowded – it’s the perfect spot for sea gazing on a fine day.
I soon discover a favourite new aperitive – a French martini made with vodka, pineapple juice and Chambord – black raspberry liqueur.
For those with deep wallets, The Boutique features expensive keepsakes, such as a $343,000 Hubert emerald necklace and earrings. By comparison, my Christmas gift, an electric toothbrush, is in another category – but I also receive an indulgent treatment at the popular Zagara Spa, named after the orange blossom on the Amalfi Coast. There’s everything from an amethyst crystal sound bath healing treatment, teeth whitening to Moor Spa Mud Foot Therapy available, but it’s an anti-ageing facial, for me.
Most nights after dinner there’s a show or dancing, but a moonlight walk on deck underneath an inky black sky with a bright moon taking centre stage trumps the lot.
Back at home, memories of a grand life at sea linger ... I especially miss our butler, those French martinis, the moonlit walks and that pillow menu.