A secluded lodge imbued with the spirit of country and nestled in the landscape of an ancient mountain.
A 28,000-ha cattle station is home to a secluded lodge imbued with the spirit of country and nestled in the landscape of an ancient mountain.
There’s a symphony of sounds buzzing in the background as we dine under a blanket of flickering stars in the shadow of lofty Mount Mulligan. Frogs are croaking in unison, while a gentle breeze wraps around the gum trees that hem the small weir, causing leaves to rustle. An agile wallaby hops by the waterfront to take a look at us and there’s fluttering in among the branches.
But it’s a strange popping sound from the water that has me stumped.
“That’s a barramundi feeding,” says Jody Westbrook, general manager of the luxury Mount Mulligan Lodge that opened last year in tropical North Queensland. “That’s proof they’re in residence after all.”
It hasn’t taken long to succumb to the magic of this 28,000-hectare cattle property that combines secluded luxury with an outback feel, history (there’s a ghost town on site!), fabulous dining and memory-making experiences. The star of the show is undoubtedly Mount Mulligan – a behemoth 10 times larger than Uluru. The conglomerate and sandstone tabletop mountain, also known as Ngarrabullgan, boasts a spectacular 18-kilometre long escarpment.
The stylish lodge and surrounds are a match for the splendour of the landscape. The main pavilion – which is home to the bar, dining area and lounge – showcases stone and timber and huge weathered pylons rescued from a pier in Sydney’s Pyrmont. It also features smooth river rock used for the two-way fireplace, Queensland red gum (charred black by the Japanese yakisugi technique) for the walls and beautiful spotted gum for the flooring.
Outside, the black-tiled infinity pool overlooks the weir, while paddleboards and kayaks are at the ready for guests to explore the still waters where frogs use lily pads as a springboard. Paperbarks and river gums fringe the surrounds.
GOLD RUSH HISTORY
The property is named after Irishborn James Mulligan, who discovered gold in 1876 on the nearby Hodgkinson River.
In 1921 disaster struck when 75 miners perished in an underground mining explosion. A plaque with their names pays tribute to the lives cut short. It was Queensland’s worst coal mining disaster and the mine was closed until 1923.
More than 300 people lived in nearby Mount Mulligan township until it was disbanded when the mine closed in 1957. The bones of a railway station, picture theatre, bathhouse, post office and two pubs remain, along with discarded water tanks used for bathing.
Our guide, Tenielle Lignieres shares a local legend with us as we enjoy a gourmet picnic under shady gum trees at Branch River under Mount Mulligan. “Some say they have seen the date ‘1921’ appear into the side of Mount Mulligan at certain times of the day but I haven’t seen it personally,” she explains.
It’s even more intriguing because no-one has access to the plateau. “Aboriginal legend is all about the wandering spirit of Eekoo who lives at the peak but there’s a mystery why the Djungan people suddenly deserted the mountain 600 years ago,” she says.
Another day we visit the deserted Tyrconnell gold mining centre, home of Australia’s oldest operating gold crusher, which at its peak employed 100 men. There’s an eerie feeling wandering around these haunts that are part of the country’s rich heritage.
Jody believes the appeal of Mount Mulligan Lodge lies in its diversity and ability to offer so many different
experiences. “The mountain itself is majestic with the colours changing in the different light throughout the day, plus there’s the depth of history of the mining town, the amazing birdlife, along with the intricate workings of the cattle station which all make it a very special place,” she says.
LOCAL WILDLIFE
Throughout our stay we spot agile wallabies, rainbow lorikeets, kookaburras and noisy friarbirds, and pass Brahman cattle wandering along the red dirt tracks.
Sundowners are served at the rustic Sunset Bar perched on a secluded hill where you can capture the best views of the timeless landscape. Before dinner there’s time to relax in my Outback Room that blends rural character with every comfort. It is one of eight guest retreats accommodating just 16 guests in total that can be made up into different configurations.
Off my room is a deck where I can spy on the wildlife with binoculars.
An outdoor corrugated iron bathtub that is a nod to those abandoned water tanks, is perfect for a good soak after a busy day.
Next morning, we don goggles and a face mask, jump in an allterrain vehicle and take off for a spin in the countryside.
Red dust flies as we cross boulderstrewn dry creeks and straddle rocky trails with ease.
Dining is an adventure. Executive chef Amanda Healey creates fabulous dishes using produce from the rich Atherton Tablelands. Her menu features locally sourced, caught and foraged produce in seasonal menus accented with native and bush foods.
NATIVE DINING
Amanda, who has planted a thriving vegetable garden, says the produce in the area is amazing. “It’s all about respecting the food – I call my style ‘refined simplicity’ where it’s about taste and making things from scratch.” Our degustation dinner includes Cairns exotic mushrooms, Mulligan red claw dumplings, Bushy Creek rib eye and wattle seed and wild rosella flower-flavoured sweet treats, with a selection of Australian wines.
For breakfast, it’s a toss-up between wattleseed pancakes or eggs Benedict; lunch can be a gourmet picnic or à la carte specials along with decadent desserts and treats.
Before I leave, I throw a line in the weir but to no avail – those elusive barramundi have nothing to worry about.
“THE MOUNTAIN ITSELF IS MAJESTIC, WITH THE COLOURS CHANGING IN THE DIFFERENT LIGHT.”
JODY WESTBROOK