ROLLING ON A RIVER
The towns of the Murray River offer watery adventures, a glimpse into Australia’s past and unparalleled natural beauty.
The towns of the Murray River offer watery adventures.
It’s that first plunge that leaves you breathless and gasping for air. I’m numb and my lips are turning blue as I leave the icy waters of the Murray River to thaw out on the grassy banks of Albury’s Noreuil Park.
It’s a first-day-of-summer timehonoured tradition that’s been going on for decades and an odds-on bet that regardless of the temperature, the water is always freezing.
We have grown up with the Murray at our doorstep, celebrated birthdays riverside, picnicked, walked and cycled beside the river, no matter the season. As kids, we floated on puffed-up lilos down the river, scared stiff we’d fall off into the current or worse still, come face-to-face with a snake hidden among the reeds or swimming to the bank.
It only happened once – I met a brown snake that slithered past me at lightning speed, up the bank and into the scrub. That was scary enough, but my mother was even scarier, yelling at the three of us to get out of the water in case the snake had company.
We laugh about it now and, like many who live along Australia’s longest river, there are myriad tales to tell including the predictable ‘one that got away’ scenarios.
It’s just part of the enchantment of the Murray River that spans three Australian states – NSW, Victoria and South Australia – starting in the Australian alps and meandering 2,508km to the Southern Ocean.
It passes through many country towns and cities, including AlburyWodonga, where it marks the state border; Corowa; Tocumwal; Moama; Echuca; Swan Hill and Mildura.
It’s the perfect route for a relaxing road trip exploring regional areas where the produce is fresh, the wine is great, history is rich and characters abound. So fill up your car, buckle up, and head out on a Murray River Trail that’s framed by waterways, tributaries and native bushlands.
ALBURY-WODONGA
The twin cities hug the banks of the Murray River – in the past, a busy trade route for paddle-steamers. The walking track beside the river at Noreuil Park is shaded by massive plane trees that turn golden in autumn. Explorers Hume and Hovell carved their names into trees riverside but only Hovell’s remains near the northern bank of the river.
The Wonga Wetlands, 6km from Albury, is home to more than 150 species of birds, which can be spotted on the Wagirra Trail. The Yindymarra Sculpture Walk showcases the work of Aboriginal artists – visit at sunrise or sunset and it’s even more spectacular.
Restaurateur Alex Smit of Albury’s River Deck Cafe on the banks of the Murray, never tires of his view and often spots platypus swimming at sunrise most mornings. “It’s a special place and very picturesque, no matter what the season,” he says. If you’re picknicking, pick up supplies at Albury’s Ebden & Olive cafe and delicious breads and Danish pastries from Nord Bakery next door.
COROWA
This riverside town was the scene of a conference in 1893 that led to the creation of the Federation of Australia in 1901. Step into the Corowa Federation Museum to learn more and then do a self-guided walking tour around the historic township.
The river is perfect for swimming, fishing, waterskiing and canoeing and you can hire bikes from the Corowa Visitor Information Centre and follow the network of cycling tracks.
Golfers will enjoy playing at the Corowa Golf Club with its 27-hole course on the banks of the Murray.
The Corowa Whisky and Chocolate factory is housed in the old 1920s Corowa Flour Mill and was sold by the shire council to the owners for $1 – the cheque is framed inside. Abandoned for years, they removed truckloads of bird droppings and replaced 700 panes of glass during the renovations.
Taste-test whisky and gin or make your own big Freckle – chocolate covered in hundreds and thousands. But beware – the organic Belgian-style chocolate is highly addictive.
ECHUCA MOAMA
The twin towns of Echuca and Moama are on opposite sides of the river, and share a rich history and strong river culture. The restored port of Echuca and historic precinct takes you back in time and is where the iconic television series, All the Rivers Run was filmed. For those who believe in ghosts, the ‘Port After Dark’ tour tells tales of strange sightings and dark secrets around the port with a lantern in hand.
A great way to experience the river is a lunchtime cruise with Murray River Paddlesteamers. We boarded the historic PS Emmylou, the world’s only wood-fired cruising paddle-steamer, and chugged along the river with its majestic gums and many houseboats.
Dramatic river red gums, water birds, ducks and pelicans take centre stage. Across the river, Moama Beach is great for a dip with a view of the iconic bridge that links the two states, or head out for a paddle on a kayak.
TOCUMWAL
Situated on the banks of the Murray, this historic town has 24 beautiful sandy beaches and amazing red gum forests. It’s also home to the Big Murray Cod. I’m told by a local it’s one of the earliest “big” things in the country and was installed in 1968. The foreshore is perfect for picnics and has a fabulous waterpark for children.
Aviation fans will enjoy Tocumwal Historic Aerodrome Museum. During World War II, Tocumwal Aerodrome was a training centre.
When the river is low you can see a blowhole sacred to the Ulupna and Bangerang Aboriginal tribes bubble away on a granite outcrop, 11km from the town at Rocks Road.
SWAN HILL
Located on the Murray, you can step back in time at the historic Pioneer Settlement with its 1850s heritage cottages and shops. It’s a great family outing with free vintage car and horse carriage rides.
Towaninnie Homestead is a typical 1880s homestead with Mallee root fences, mud-brick kitchen and half cellar and there’s even a blacksmith showing how it used to be done.
It’s impossible to leave the oldfashioned lolly shop without a pocketful of sweets.
In the evening, the laser, fire and water spectacular ‘Heartbeat of the Murray’ is unmissable. Using water, light, laser, sound and special effects, it tells the story of the Murray, beginning 30 million years ago, before hurtling forward through time to the Murray as we know it today. The 360-degree multi-media spectacular showcases the wonder of the mighty river.
MILDURA
Mildura has it all – great food and wine, a laid-back feel and a Mediterranean-style climate.
It’s a great place to experience the Murray in all its glory ... whether on a paddle-steamer or luxury houseboat complete with a rooftop spa.
Self-taught chef Stefano de Pieri, who was born in Treviso, near Venice, and arrived in Australia in 1974, put Mildura on the gourmet food map with his enchanting television series, A Gondola on the Murray.
Dine at Stefano’s Cantina in the atmospheric cellars at the Grand Hotel and you are in for a memorable feast. Our Italian-style five-course meal was a delicious display of fresh seasonal produce. There’s no menu – it’s a surprise. Next morning, it’s breakfast under the vines at Stefano’s Cafe where you can also purchase his homemade goods.
Gin lover Steve Timms enjoyed it so much, he opened his own distillery, Fossey’s. Don’t be fooled by the teapot – it’s full of Earl Grey Gin. There’s a great selection of flavoured gins, including Desert Lime, Kaffir Leaf, and Old Man Saltbush.
We cruised on the Rothbury, one of Mildura Paddlesteamers’ three vessels and loved watching the river traffic. The two-hour cruise included a comprehensive live commentary about the Murray Darling River system and the environment, plus the history of the paddleboats.
It’s a bird lovers’ dream and mesmerising watching the scenery change along the river.