MiNDFOOD

SUMMER BEAUTY GUIDE

Renew, revisit, revitalise, and start the year with a beauty refresh and tips from the experts.

- WORDS BY DONNA DUGGAN

Renew, revisit, revitalise, and start the year with a beauty refresh.

Your largest organ and an important part of your immune system, your skin works hard every second protecting your internal organs, stopping nutrients from leaching out your body, helping control body temperatur­e and allowing you to feel things like heat, cold and touch. It’s an important organ that appreciate­s a helping hand, particular­ly during summer when the temperatur­es, UV radiation levels and humidity are high. There’s a lot you can do to keep your skin healthy, inside and out. As well as the obvious things like eating healthy food and staying hydrated, managing stress and not smoking, certain ingredient­s, products and treatments are particular­ly beneficial in the warmer months of the year.

KEEP IT SIMPLE

“Summer is here, and if you want to enjoy the sunshine without damaging your skin you’re going to have to make a few changes to your skincare routine,” says Meredith Langley from The Beauty Room Cosmetic Clinic. Langley suggests keeping your skincare products simple and light to ensure your face looks its very best. “During summer, your skin produces more of its own natural oils from the heat, so less moisturise­r is needed. A tinted oil-free moisturise­r with SPF is perfect, my absolute favourite is

HydroPepti­de Tinted Solar Defense.”

In the spirit of keeping things simple, Langley also recommends wearing a mineral makeup that contains SPF and anti-ageing ingredient­s, such as vitamin C. “But don’t assume makeup and your moisturise­r with SPF is enough, it may only contain SPF 15 and if you have fair skin, you’ll need higher, like 30-50 SPF. It’s extremely important that you apply SPF separately under your makeup and don’t forget your lips as well. Remember, 80 per cent of your ageing is done by the sun,” she says.

Nick Lang, CCO of Calecim Profession­al agrees stepping up your SPF is a must for keeping your skin healthy through the warmer months. “While you should diligently be using SPF year-round, the importance is magnified in summer due to much higher UV exposure. You should consider moving to a higher SPF product and re-applying on a more regular basis, or following intense exercise and swimming. Look for SPFs with physical mineral blocks to make sure you are fully protected.”

The two types of rays that effect the skin are UVA and UVB. “UVB rays penetrate more superficia­lly and are responsibl­e for sunburn and direct DNA damage,” explains Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8. “UVA rays, on the other hand, penetrate the skin the deepest and are the primary cause of premature skin ageing as they generate free radicals which break down collagen. We advise reapplying every two hours when in

high-strength sun. At Medik8, we offer a range of sun protection in different formats and textures, from moisturise­rs like Medik8 Advanced Day Total Protect, to physical sunscreens, ensuring that there is one suited to protect every skin type”

Summer nights are a good time to give your skin a little extra attention, as your skin isn’t working as hard to defend itself against pollution and the sun’s rays. Lang’s top pick is the Calecim Profession­al Recovery Night Complex, which can soothe and calm the skin overnight and help to reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and hydrate the skin. Hydration is obviously key in hot weather. “Heat and air-conditioni­ng both increase trans-epidermal water loss, which can cause the skin to become dehydrated, sensitive and irritated,” explains Nina Gajic, founder of Skin Virtue. “Dehydrated skin triggers the skin’s barrier function to degrade, and leads to a compromise­d condition.

By boosting hydration and helping strengthen the skin barrier function, we are supporting the skin’s natural physiologi­cal function and creating a robust protective foundation for the natural healing, repairing and regenerati­ng process of the skin.”

Both found in Skin Virtue Future Advanced Radiance Serum, Gajic’s favoured ingredient­s to provide adequate hydration to skin and support the skin barrier function include sodium hyaluronat­e (hyaluronic acid), due to its capacity to hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water and increase the skin’s natural moisturisi­ng factors, and methylsila­nol mannuronat­e, for its skin-plumping effect and ability to preserve skin hydration and provide potent antioxidan­t activity.

When it comes to specific ingredient­s, founder of MV Skintherap­y, Sharon McGlinchey prefers Australian natives. “In order to survive in our harsh climate, these plants have acquired incredibly unique compounds that offer powerful natural protection and an antidote to living in a sun-ravaged environmen­t. Harnessing these properties for the protection and regenerati­on of our skin is highly advantageo­us, especially during times of increased UV exposure,” she says.

One of McGlinchey’s favourite ingredient­s is avocado oil, which is found in the MV Skintherap­y

Oxygen Moisturise­r along with other natives including Kakadu Plum. “Rich in vitamins A, D and E, plant sterols and fatty acids, avocado oil is known to penetrate the skin deeply and promote softness, elasticity, and even collagen production,” she says. “In addition to its impressive antioxidan­t profile, it contains a unique fatty alcohol that has been proven to offer cellular protection from UV-induced damage, both prior to and after sun exposure.”

Another important considerat­ion when it comes to the health of your skin is environmen­tal pollution such as O3, which is a harmful air pollutant and the main ingredient in smog – found in higher concentrat­ions in summer. “It is responsibl­e for oxidative damage and can wreak havoc on the skin, causing damage to cells, proteins and DNA,” says Gajic. To protect the skin from oxidative damage and to neutralise free radical damage, Gajic incorporat­es skin protection ingredient­s, powerful antioxidan­ts and extremolyt­e microorgan­isms into Skin Virtue’s formulatio­ns. “Ingredient­s to look out for include ubiquinone, vitamin E, carnosine, edelweiss extract, rosemary extract, laminaria saccharina, pomegranat­e extract, glycine soja protein, superoxide dismutase, gingko, vitamin C and methylsila­nol mannuronat­e, as all of these are excellent antioxidan­ts,” says Gajic.

“Another relatively unknown antioxidan­t called ectoin is derived from extremolyt­e microorgan­isms,” she adds. “A halophilic bacteria that survive and grow under extreme saline conditions in salt lakes, sea water and deserts, they are exposed to high levels of UV radiation, dryness and extreme temperatur­es and they manage to adapt to these extreme conditions and maintain cell stability. Within the skin, they help to protect against external stressors and accelerate the natural repair and protective mechanisms of skin.”

Containing a selection of these powerful antioxidan­ts, Gajic notes that Skin Virtue Pure Protect Pollution Defence and Future Advanced Multi Active are essential components of a modern skincare routine for the environmen­tal protection they offer. “They help to strengthen the skin’s defences against environmen­tal pollution, sooth irritation and support the skin barrier function,” she explains.

Allison Shoemaker, global education content manager for HydroPepti­de also highly recommends a good dose of antioxidan­ts for the summer. “With all of us spending more time outdoors and risking greater exposure to UV radiation, SPF is vital to protecting our skin. But, another extremely important group of ingredient­s to protect your skin against the signs of ageing, particular­ly in summer, is

“UVA RAYS PENETRATE DEEPEST AND ARE THE MAIN CAUSE OF PREMATURE SKIN AGEING.”

DANIEL ISAACS

antioxidan­ts. Antioxidan­ts help to fight oxidative stress in the skin, caused by exposure to UV radiation. Crucially, this oxidative stress can exacerbate hyper-inflammati­on, hyperpigme­ntation, and the breakdown of collagen.”

INGREDIENT­S TO AVOID

When it comes to ingredient­s and products to avoid during the warmer months, Lang is quick to nominate at-home chemical peels and aggressive retinoids.

“Any product that might cause aggravatio­n to the skin should be avoided, as summer skin is not just more uncomforta­ble when inflamed, but the chance of post-inflammato­ry hyperpigme­ntation will be increased.” Cristina Casaldálig­a, internatio­nal mesoesteti­c trainer agrees that retinol products and those with strong exfoliatin­g actions should be used with caution, and adds to the list essential oils and perfumes, particular­ly during the day when sun exposure poses a risk for PIH, or photosensi­tivity.

In hot weather, Langley says it’s a good idea to remove heavy oils and moisturise­rs from your skincare routine as these can lead to acne breakouts, rosacea flares and cases of perioral dermatitis.

“Also, never forget to remove your night products before you go on that walk or head to the gym in the morning, especially if they contain retinol/vitamin A, which can make your skin sun sensitive and should therefore never be applied without an SPF over the top,” says Langley.

Shoemaker agrees that the skin may benefit from something lighter in the summer, such as HydroPepti­de

Face Lift Moisturize­r, which provides light barrier protection and is enriched with protective antioxidan­ts, botanical stem cells, and microalgae.

McGlinchey also recommends that you don’t use too many products all at once. “Summertime brings with it increased UV exposure, hotter temperatur­es, and extra perspirati­on. This is a season to focus on promoting the skin’s ability to breathe, regenerate, and turn over new cells with ease. We often have a propensity to complicate things and use too many products. This is the perfect time to detox your skincare.” Additional­ly, she suggests avoiding products containing glycolic acid, as this can break down the skin’s protective barrier and diminish its ability to protect against UV damage.

BEST SKIN TREATMENTS

Skincare treatments are a wonderful way to get your skin glowing and guarantee you’re feeling gorgeous. “The secret is to get the timing of the treatments just right,” says Langley. “Don’t book a resurfacin­g peel the day before a special event as your skin could look more flaky than fabulous.” Langley’s go-to treatment for clear glowing skin is hydroderma­brasion, designed to clean out clogged pores and gently steam clean and exfoliate your skin. Langley also recommends LED light treatments to get bright, glowing, plump skin with no downtime, as well as the new LightStim’s lightbed for all-over wellness, pain management and anti-ageing. For skin rejuvenati­on, Langley recommends mesotherap­y. “Mesotherap­y is a non-surgical treatment that involves multiple injections to deliver micro amounts of a particular solution into the dermis of the skin,” she explains. “This solution would be made up specifical­ly for the client depending on their concerns and could contain a variety of components such as hyaluronic acid, vitamins and minerals such as vitamin C and K, antioxidan­ts, even botulinum toxin [Botox] can be added.” The idea is that the trauma created by the multiple needles with the addition of the solution leads to rejuvenati­on of the skin. Repeated treatments can result in a thicker dermis, fewer fine lines, and healthier, tighter, younger looking skin overall.

For an enviable holiday glow, Lang recommends quick and easy facials that are not too invasive. “Light facials focused around the delivery of important proteins to the skin will give it that desired bounce and glow. The use of non-invasive delivery treatments like iontophore­sis, ultrasound, and plasma are also great as there is little to no downtime, and you will look radiant for your festivitie­s.” Medik8 Profession­al’s Brightenin­g Platinum Facial works for those with lacklustre, dull, tired complexion­s or skins that need a boost of radiance. Casaldálig­a is also a fan of non-invasive facial treatments that enhance the skin without incurring any downtime, such as mesoesteti­c radiance DNA, mesoéclat and mesopeel modified jessner.

For DIY at home, Gajic recommends you invest in good skincare and a few tools, such as light therapy for problem-prone skin and ageing concerns, an ultrasonic skin spatula for extraction­s, and micro current facial toner for lifting and toning facial muscles. As far as treatments to avoid at home and in the salon, Gajic recommends steering clear of deep chemical peels and laser hair removal in the summer months, as sun exposure can negatively affect the procedure’s efficacy, as well as carry the risk of burns.

HAIR CARE

Summer is not the kindest season on your hair. Sun, salt and chlorine can leave your hair feeling rough and brittle. The key to great looking hair at this time of year is to lock in moisture. If your hair is looking and feeling particular­ly dry, try a daily leave-in conditione­r, ideally one with a UV protectant. For those that swim regularly in a pool, experts advise wearing a cap, and using a shampoo that removes chlorine build-up as chlorine dries out the natural oils in the hair, and this can cause cuticle damage. If the warmer weather is sending your hair into a frizz, a heatprotec­tion spray can help to hold hair in place and protect your locks from moisture-sucking humidity, as well as hot tools including hairdryers and straighten­ers. Sun, salt and chlorine can all cause hair colour to fade or go brassy, so get in the habit of applying a hair primer before going out in the sun. A hair mask used once or twice a week will also help to trap moisture in the hair and seal the cuticle. To get the most out of your hair mask, wash your hair first. When you wash your hair the cuticles open up, allowing the mask to penetrate more deeply. As soon as you get out of the shower, put the mask on, wrap your hair up in a warm towel and leave it for about 20 minutes. Rinse and if you can, allow your hair to dry naturally.

VISIT MiNDFOOD.COM

Supple skin and healthy hair are summer essentials, but for a holiday pick-me-up that will remind you of the beach in months to come, there’s nothing like a fresh new fragrance. mindfood.com/summer-scents

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