Daniel Isaacs talks about the revolutionary potential of Crystal Retinal.
INTERVIEW WITH DANIEL ISAACS, DIRECTOR OF RESEARCH, MEDIK8 ON THE NEXT-GENERATION FORM OF VITAMIN A Having been part of Medik8 for almost a decade, Daniel Isaacs heads a team of Medik8 biochemists and formulation scientists. He chats to MiNDFOOD about the revolutionary development and potential of Crystal Retinal.
Retinaldehyde (retinal) is a nextgeneration form of vitamin A, clinically proven to work up to 11 times faster than retinol.1 It can target fine lines and wrinkles, pigmentation, uneven skin texture and even blemishes, as it is directly antibacterial on skin unlike other forms of vitamin A.
How is retinaldehyde different from retinol and other types of vitamin A?
Retinal is one step away from prescription strength vitamin A (retinoic acid) in the vitamin A pathway. When retinol is applied to the skin, it must first convert to retinaldehyde and then to retinoic acid to work. Retinaldehyde is one step closer to the bioactive form of vitamin A and therefore works up to 11x faster in the skin than traditional retinol.1 In clinical studies it performs almost akin to retinoic acid, while maintaining a low level of irritation similar to retinol.2
Retinaldehyde is the only vitamin A proven to be directly antibacterial.3 It is able to target the bacteria which causes blemishes (P. acnes) to promote a clearer, more decongested complexion. That’s why at Medik8 we recommend our Crystal Retinal range to customers looking for anti-ageing skincare, but who are still suffering from blemishes.
What was involved in its formulation?
It is clear that retinaldehyde has a multitude of benefits for the skin, so you may be wondering why it isn’t more popular than traditional retinol? The problem lies with stability – this is why there are very few brands offering retinal. The retinaldehyde molecule is near impossible to stabilise, and is one of the most unstable ingredients. We spent many years of research working in collaboration with the University of Hertfordshire to create the Crystal Retinal formula. Crystal Retinal features retinaldehyde encapsulated in a crystal shell; both to protect it from being degraded in the environment and as a form of Time Release Technology. The crystal shell is slowly broken down on the skin, gradually delivering retinal into the complexion overnight to minimise any irritation levels associated with the vitamin A.
Crystal Retinal is also reinforced by a patent-pending stabilisation formula complex.
The second part of our doublelayered stability system is based on carrot seed oil, to keep our retinal formula bulletproof throughout its whole life cycle, from raw material to formula to shelf to skin – the full life cycle of retinaldehyde.
How does it work?
Working to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, Crystal Retinal visibly renews and resurfaces the complexion. The serum sinks into skin to nurture and smooth; leaving the skin feeling strengthened, hydrated and ready for overnight rejuvenation.
What is the theory behind having different strengths of retinaldehyde?
We provide retinaldehyde in five different strengths, from 0.01% in Crystal Retinal 1 to our latest edition Crystal Retinal 20, with 0.2%. Our lowest strength gives the opportunity for very sensitive skin to get started on the retinaldehyde ladder, but most users will start on a Crystal Retinal 3 and work their way up the ladder, slowly increasing strength.
Why do you need to use an ingredient to promote cellular turnover? Doesn’t it happen naturally?
Yes, skin cell turnover does happen naturally. However, as we age, our skin cell regeneration cycle slows down as we begin to deplete in natural exfoliation enzymes. Vitamin A is proven to help increase the proliferation of skin cells, to boost cellular turnover resulting in smoother skin texture and minimised visible signs of skin ageing.
How does retinaldehyde minimise fine lines and wrinkles?
Retinaldehyde is able to help plump skin, speed up cellular renewal and minimise pigment production for youthful-looking and even-toned skin.
What are the other features and actions of your new Crystal Retinal range?
Crystal Retinal also combines hydrating hyaluronic acid and skin soothing vitamin E, to target fine lines and wrinkles for smooth youthful-looking skin.
References available on request.