KING VALLEY
There’s no question that the people of the King Valley – a little slice of Italian-esque heaven – enjoy la dolce vita. Fortunately they invite you to come live it too and sample their food, drink their wine and watch the sun set over the vines.
This Italian-esque slice of paradise in Victoria boasts incredible wineries, delicious food and friendly locals.
“THERE’S A STRONG SENSE OF OUR ITALIAN TRADITIONS BEING PASSED DOWN.” JOEL PIZZINI
There’s a bocce game in full swing, accompanied by a toe-tapping, finger-snapping Italian tune, as we sip a fine prosecco and dine on homemade gnocchi, followed by the best tiramisu ever. Nearby there’s a well-loved vegetable garden brimming with zucchini, bountiful basil, eggplants, beans and meandering pumpkin vines, along with magnificent valley views that seem to go on forever.
No, it’s not a corner of northern Italy – it’s the King Valley in northeast Victoria, which is a three-hour drive from Melbourne.
There’s nowhere quite like the King Valley, which stretches 75 kilometres south from Wangaratta into the Alpine National Park, taking in the towns of Oxley, Milawa, Moyhu, Whitfield, Cheshunt and Myrrhee.
This little patch of heaven is often likened to pockets of Italy – it’s no surprise that many Italian migrants ventured here in the 1940s and ’50s because it reminded them of their beloved homeland.
In those days it was all about tobacco, but today it is about manicured vineyards, award-winning wines, fabulous food and authentic Italian-style hospitality.
The picturesque King Valley is perfect for winery hopping, boasting some of the highest altitude vineyards in the country producing prosecco, riesling, shiraz, nebbiolo, sangiovese, barbera, verduzzo, brachetto and arneis, as well as rarer Italian varietals. There’s the chance to meet winemakers and their families as well as taste excellent drops at more than a dozen wineries, soak up mountain views and revel in the eucalyptusscented fresh air.
Arnie Pizzini, who established Chrismont Wines with his father in 1980, opened the stunning Chrismont Restaurant, Cellar Door and Larder with wife Jo in 2015 at Cheshunt. Designed to appear to hover above the vineyards, you experience warm genuine Italian hospitality, excellent wines and an Italian-inspired menu – a mix of the couple’s northern and southern Italian heritage.
Chrismont chef Amit Kumar, who worked in Milan and surrounds for many years, fell in love with the King Valley and its fresh produce. Menu highlights include housemade pappardelle with beef cheek, lamb and pork ragù, topped with stracciatella and a finale of decadent millefoglie (‘thousand layers’) of puff pastry, fresh strawberries and chantilly coconut cream.
Arnie describes the area as a very special place. “It has a similar climate and landscape to Piemonte and Tuscany in Italy, and Alsace in France, so it enables us to produce rich cool-climate wines,” he says.
Arnie’s wines, a diverse collection of Italian and classic European varietal wines across the Chrismont, La Zona and Riserva collections, are made with passion. New drops include Chrismont La Zona Barbera 2016, with an aroma of red cherries and plum, and a cinnamon spice oak background. Larder stocks feature Sicilian pickled melanzane (eggplant), cumquats in syrup, chocolate spicy walnut biscotti, and orange and ruby grapefruit marmellata.
Closer to the town of Whitfield is Pizzini Wines (pictured left), where Fred Pizzini planted his first riesling vines in 1978 after growing up on a tobacco farm with his parents, who also left the Italian Alps for a new life in Australia. It’s a family affair, with son Joel making wines that include award-winning pinot grigio, riesling, arneis, shiraz, sangiovese, nebbiolo and vin santo, a rare Italian dessert wine. Joel says his love of winemaking came from growing up on the farm and being out in the vineyard. “There’s a strong sense of our Italian family traditions being passed down, while still keeping up with all the new things we want to do.”
Try a tasting at the cellar door or sign up for an inspiring cooking class with Fred’s wife, Katrina, who learned to cook when she lived with her Italian mother-in-law for the first 12 months of her married life. She now shares her treasured recipes at her hands-on A tavola! Cooking School, where you can learn how to make pasta, ravioli and gnocchi the true Italian way. Also, a new ‘Pop & Fizz Prosecco’ food-pairing experience shows surprising matches.
Guests are welcomed to Dal Zotto in Whitfield, with the word ‘Buongiorno’ scrawled on a blackboard as they drive in. The popular winery is known for its warm hospitality and many award-winning drops, including its acclaimed prosecco.
The wine-making family including Otto, his wife Elena, and sons, Michael and Christian pioneered prosecco in Australia, planting it in 1999. They will celebrate the 21st anniversary later this year.
Winemaker Michael joined Otto, who started making wines in 1987 after emigrating from Italy in 1967 and first growing tobacco.
He describes the King Valley as one of the most beautiful places he has ever seen.
“I love seeing people’s reactions when they arrive and take their first look at the hills and countryside; they are overwhelmed at times,” he says.
The winery’s popular trattoria has an Italian-inspired menu with antipasto, gnocchi and handmade pasta and great pizzas. The ‘Otto’ is topped with San Daniele prosciutto, red onion, capers, mushroom, rosemary and buffalo mozzarella. Latest offerings include the limited release Tabelo Col Fondo Prosecco 2017 – named in honour of Otto’s late father, Giovanni, and a sparkling Nebbiolo 2016.
Chef Nikki Kennedy, who loves using the fresh produce from the garden, says her favourite dishes are rich braises such as osso bucco. New events include the ‘Cento Passi’ experience – meaning the 100 steps from the garden to the table. Wines will be matched to four seasonal dishes and there’s also a property walk with a family member.
Family matriarch Nonna Elena will show her much-loved veggie garden with precious produce that ends up on the trattoria table.
For lovers of Italian bubbly, Dal Zotto is among the movers and shakers behind the Prosecco Road tasting route, along with Chrismont, Pizzini, Brown Brothers and Sam Miranda wineries.
The route stretches 50 kilometres from the Milawa Gourmet Region to Cheshunt and offers a variety of intimate prosecco tastings and culinary experiences showcasing the simple pleasures of prosecco.
Accommodation ranges from the Gentle Annie Caravan and Camping Reserve, to cosy bed and breakfasts and hotel stays. The newest is the impressive Sambar Hills at Cheshunt South, which features three stylish self-contained retreats in a picturesque setting overlooking manicured vineyards, tall gums and bushland.
Sally and Jamie Keith, who have always loved the area, moved from Shellharbour with their four young children for the new venture. Jamie, a builder, converted three former stadium corporate boxes into sleek accommodation and transported them from the coast. Each one has a cosy living area with a kitchenette, microwave and a barbecue on the deck. The adjoining open-plan bedroom has a queen bed, plush decor and freestanding bath and shower.
A fire pit with wood at the ready is perfect for sitting around and stargazing in the clear night skies with a King Valley drop in hand.
“We want people to come here and relax and just enjoy this beautiful part of the world,” says Sally.
Named after the sambar deer that roam the bushlands, it is perfect for a weekend getaway or short break and a place you won’t want to leave in a hurry. It is all about slowing down and appreciating Mother Nature in all her glory with ever-changing hues as the light changes. We spot beautiful birds resting on the vines and enjoy a walk, while keeping an eye out for the resident koala, nicknamed Caramello.
After a winery hop, it is great to soak in the bath overlooking the vineyards and later fall asleep, serenaded by the King River.
Gin and craft beer also feature in this area. Nathan and Brianna Munt established King River Brewing in 2016 and offer a variety of beers with ‘big tastes’. A beer paddle can include King Valley Kolsch – the bestseller; smooth Altbier; Wet Hopped Galaxy; and Robust Fig Porter.
Brianna’s father Walter Sartori oversees the wood-fired pizza oven at the Whitfield Road brewery. Pump It Up is a favourite with onion jam, rosemary-roasted pumpkin, Tolpuddle goat cheese and fresh rocket, while the King River Special has Italian sausage, organic kalamata olives, capers and Grana Padano parmesan.
The verdict? “Cibo delizioso!” Simon Brooke-Taylor and partner Wendy Williams make interesting gin at their small-batch gin distillery, Hurdle Creek Still at Bobina warrah. Step inside the rustic Still House where all the gins are made and bottled onsite, for a tasting.
“What sets our gins apart from others is that the distilled base spirit is made from locally sourced grain using a traditional infusion mashing system, which gives our gin a unique grain character,” says Simon. “The juniper and a select blend of local and native botanicals – some of which are grown in our garden – are vapour infused into the spirit, ensuring light, subtle flavours throughout our gins.”
Bestsellers include Yardarm Gin with classic botanicals; Aniseed Gin; Powder Monkey Navy Strength Gin; Grain Jenever; plus a French-style Pastis and Dark Cacao liqueur.
PRODUCERS
There’s a variety of passionate food producers in this part of the world where it is all about food that travels metres, not kilometres. Side stalls can be spotted selling produce. Fresh produce features on menus at cafés and restaurants and you can stock up at local markets.
King Valley Walnuts was established by Mike Burston and Carol Kunert 15 years ago and they now have 4,000 walnut trees on their 170-hectare property at Myrrhee. Walnuts are washed, dried, graded and packed onsite.
David and Connie Northey run Myrrhee Premium Boer Goats on their 50-hectare property and sell first-class goat meat and the tender speciality cut, capretto, throughout Australia, as well as livestock.
Warrawee Apple Orchard at Cheshunt, established in 1895, is home to three hectares of apple trees featuring 10 old and rare varieties, while Newtons Organic Prickleberry Farm at Whitfield sells delicious berries in season.
Ross and Leanne Dodds of King Valley Fine Foods in Whitfield make their condiments onsite from local produce in season, including pesto and pasta sauces, relishes, dressings, dips and patés.
ATTRACTIONS
On a fine day, head to lofty Power’s Lookout for the best views over the King Valley and beyond. Vistas of manicured farmlands, neat wineries, tiny townships, rugged cliffs and tree-covered hills unfold. It’s a 15-minute drive from Whitfield and was the hideout of ‘gentleman bushranger’ Harry Power, who earned his nickname as he was courteous to women and sympathetic to those with only a few shillings. He hid from troopers until he was captured after a tip-off from a Kelly Gang member in 1870. Legend has it he once described the area as having the finest sights in the world. It is a bit of a climb to the second lookout but worth it to gaze over the countryside.
Paradise Falls, located in the Alpine National Park, a 20-minute drive from Cheshunt in the Upper King Valley, is another highlight. Follow a steep stone step track through fragrant bushland to see twin streams of crystal-clear water tumbling from the cliffs above. Venture to the curved rock face where you can stand behind the waterfall and watch it spill over the rocks.
Sparkling Lake William Hovell, 18 kilometres from Cheshunt, is perfect for fishing, bush walks, fishing, cycling, canoeing and four-wheel driving. A local tells us there are plenty of redfin and brown and rainbow trout in the lake, so we throw in a line and cross our fingers. But it seems word has got around and we are out of luck – instead we head to Whitfield’s Mountain View Hotel where fish and chips are on the menu.
The King Valley is all about the sweet life – at any time of the year.
As Michael Dal Zotto fittingly says, “One visit to the King Valley is never enough. It’s the type of place that traps you and you want to keep returning.”
“ONE VISIT TO THE KING VALLEY IS NEVER ENOUGH. YOU WANT TO KEEP RETURNING.”
MICHAEL DAL ZOTTO