Prevention (Australia)

FUTURE OF SMARTER SCREENS

- BY CECILY-ANNA BENNETT

Scientists have already created a DNA coating that offers greater protection for skin cells against ultraviole­t light the more it’s exposed to the sun, while keeping your skin hydrated. A drinkable sunscreen that protects you from the inside out, has also been invented in the US. Called UVO, it claims to offer 3–5 hours of supplement­al sun protection (bear in mind that the study was conducted on a sample size of only 15 people – further testing is required). So, although they haven’t yet cracked the code for a cream that applies itself to your body while whispering sweet somethings about how spectacula­r you look in swimwear, who’s to say that isn’t a possibilit­y one day?

Since the early days of sunscreens, which applied like wallpaper paste and clung to the skin with a ghostly pallor, formulas have evolved markedly. Innovation­s in sunscreen mean they’re no longer just about sun safety, offering skincare and make-up benefits as well as UV protection. Cutting-edge technology and silky smooth formulas ensure slathering on your sunscreen is a joy – which let’s face it, is the key to protecting our skin from the harsh sun.

“There’s an art to finding the right combinatio­n of ingredient­s,” explains Dr Fabrizio Spada, PhD, research and developmen­t manager at Ego Pharmaceut­icals, who is at the forefront of sunscreen innovation.

“You can include alpha hydroxy acids if you want anti-ageing benefits. You can also add moisturise­rs if you’re concerned about the dryness factor of sun exposure. And then there’s tints if you’re interested in a make-up effect.”

The aim is to make sure all the ingredient­s in a product live happily with each other in the final formula and so deliver the benefits without compromisi­ng each other’s performanc­e.

Now, there’s an added emphasis on how sunscreens feel on applicatio­n, making it even more of a challenge for people like Spada.

“Skin feel is so important – the immediate feeling of the product on your skin, the way it spreads and the residual feeling after around 20-30 minutes of applying it,” Spada explains.

“The more attractive the sunscreen formulatio­n becomes in terms of elegance and skin feel, the more consumers will reapply it, and the better outcome you get for preventing things like melanoma and skin cancer.

“We’re seeing a lot of advancemen­ts around the cosmetic elegance of sunscreens, which still deliver the highest possible protection allowed.”

Welcome to the new breed of advanced SPFs, which feel so good on the skin that reapplying is a luxury, not a chore.

THE RIGHT FORMULA

COVER UP

So, you have a favourite product. It moisturise­s, corrects and offers sun-protection. You think you’ve found the Holy Grail of sunblock (and you may well have). It’s just that… if you’re not using it properly, you may not be getting the protection you need. It’s the same lesson that’s been drummed into us since fluoro zinc was the go. Reapply. Religiousl­y. “You can’t apply sunscreen once a day,” urges Dr Spada. “Typically they have to be reapplied every 2–3 hours. If you’re indoors it’s not as critical but if you’re outside that’s definitely the recommenda­tion.”

For adults that’s a teaspoon for your head and neck, another for each limb and one each for the front and the back of the body. There’s also the level of sun protection to think about. The SPF value indicates how much radiation will be filtered – but this still leaves a certain amount that gets through (even if expertly applied). SPF 50+, the highest protection factor available in Australia, still allows about 1.6 per cent of radiation through the barrier. SPF 30 is around half as protective, with 3.3 per cent of radiation able to penetrate your (expertly-applied) product.

“It’s not so much about the radiation that is blocked that matters – it’s more important to consider what makes it through because that’s the radiation that can cause damage to the skin,” says Dr Spada. In short? SPF 30 offers satisfacto­ry protection, but SPF 50 comes out on top.

So slap on your moisturise­r and your luxe-feel foundation, safe in the knowledge it’s fortified with an SPF 50. Then head outside with all the confidence of someone who knows they’re protected from the sun, and looks spectacula­r. Because you absolutely do. E

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