Skincare stripped back
Dermatologists tell us the products that are the basis of a healthy skin routine
Yes, you can restore your skin with retinol and hydrate it with hyaluronic acid. You can also replenish it with sodium hyaluronate while adding other ingredients that will help increase collagen and decrease toxins. But before you even head to the cosmetic counter to search for labels that feature a range of these high-tech ingredients (and more), have you got the foundations right? Our experts have put together a list of four must-have products that they say are the cornerstone of any daily beauty routine. These basics (with or without high-tech ingredients) form the foundation of every successful skincare ritual – one that will keep your skin healthy and looking refreshed every day. It only takes four steps (and we’ve even given you a head start with our favourite products for each one). You’ll soon have skin that you love with a routine that’s as easy as 1-2-3.... 4!
1 CLEANSER
Why you want it
Going to sleep without a good facial cleanse can clog pores and prevent skin from recovering from the day’s stress. But experts say it’s also important to wash your face in the am. Overnight, bacteria from saliva, oils from your hair and allergens from your pillow transfer to your face. Another reason: “You need to remove any residue from the products you used the night before because it could interfere with the absorption and action of your daytime products,” explains dermatologist Jessica Wu.
What to look for
For oily or acne-prone skin, Wu recommends a gel cleanser, which rinses off cleaner than other formulations.“It removes excess oil that was deposited on your skin overnight,” she says. Those with dry or sensitive skin should choose a creamy or milky cleanser.
How to apply it
Morning and night, with your hands or a superfine cloth. Wu suggest giving the cleansing process a little more oomph with reusable, machine-washable pads that can help remove make-up and residue with a gentle swipe. Face-washing that’s easier and more effective than ever? Yes please.
2
MOISTURISER
Why you want it
Moisturisers help maintain the health of your skin’s outer layer, which protects against pollutants, bacteria and UV rays.“When this barrier is breached, moisture can escape and irritants can penetrate more easily,” explains dermatologist Arielle Kauvar, a clinical professor of dermatology at New York University. The result is inflammation, which can lead to wrinkles and sagging.
What to look for
Light lotions, gels or serums labelled non-comedogenic (that’s, unlikely to clog pores) are best for oily or acne-prone skin. Heavier lotions, creams or intensive serums are ideal for dry skin. If the product contains lipids, ceramides or hyaluronic acid – all of which are found naturally in skin – it’s more likely to deliver results.“By reinforcing the skin barrier with biologically similar compounds, you can almost guarantee that your skin will be more hydrated,” explains Mona Gohara, an associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.
How to apply it
Leave skin slightly damp after washing, then apply moisturiser. “Moisturisers both draw water into the skin and help hold it there, which helps restore plumpness and soften fine lines,” Kauvar says. It’s fine to use the same lotion morning and night.
3
EXFOLIANT
Why you want it
Exfoliants help counteract the effects of age-related slowdown in cell turnover, such as clogged pores and increased fine lines. Physical scrubs contain tiny seeds or grains, while chemical solutions are formulated with alpha or beta hydroxy acids. Besides boosting radiance, alpha hydroxy acids can regenerate collagen, as well as help fade brown spots. Whichever method you choose, you’ll improve absorption of the ingredients in the products you apply next, says Kauvar.
What to look for
Choose scrubs with particles such as rice grains or jojoba beads to do all the hard work. For chemical exfoliants, products with beta hydroxy acids (which are oil-soluble) work better for oily skin, and those with alpha hydroxy acids (water-soluble) for dry skin.
How to apply it
Exfoliate after cleansing and before moisturising every two to three days if your skin is oily; those with dry or sensitive skin should limit it to once or twice a week.
4 SUNSCREEN
Why you want it
“Sunscreen is the single most important product you can use to prevent premature ageing and skin cancer,” says Kauvar, who notes that 90 per cent of the signs of ageing are due to cumulative UV exposure. And daily use of sunscreen has been shown to reduce pigmentation and textural changes caused by UV exposure by up to 52 per cent.
What to look for
Choose a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of at least 30. Wu suggests using a moisturiser that contains sunscreen, which provides the same protection. Or try a BB cream with skin protection.You can also add a product with vitamin C; it’s been shown to reduce pigmentation and protect against UV rays and pollutants.
How to apply it
Make sunscreen the last product you apply before foundation. Layering other skincare products, such as moisturiser, on top of sunscreen reduces effectiveness.
By reinforcing the skin barrier with biologically similar compounds, you can almost guarantee that your skin will be more hydrated.