Cheat sheet: layering The best way to get great skin

The antithesis of multitasking skincare, why is layering the latest term to gain traction?

What is it?

Exactly as it sounds: applying skincare in thin layers and in a carefully considered order for the best results.

Why do it?

Modern skincare tends to use potent levels of active ingredients, so you are more likely to see significant benefits by layering them. Certain ingredients also boost each other’s effects: vitamins C and E correct dark spots better when under sunscreen, for example, while vitamin E and ferulic acid enhance the effects of other vitamins. At night, nourishing face oil pairs well over retinol or acids. Some ingredients negatively affect the other’s benefits, such as retinol and anti-acne benzoyl peroxide, which cancel each other out. And, unless smartly formulated, beta (salicylic) and alpha hydroxy acids change the pH of vitamin C, reducing its antioxidant power and potentially causing irritation. Experts are divided on using vitamin C and retinoids together, preferring protective vitamin C for day, repairing retinol at night.

Who should do it?

Anyone wanting to achieve maximum results. Daytime layering should be geared towards protection from environmental aggressors like sun and pollution. Think antioxidants, moisturiser and sunscreen. Skin needs to rest and repair overnight, so include ingredients that help with that, such as glycolic acid or retinol, as well as hydrating serums, creams or oils.

How should you do it?

Water can’t penetrate oil, so apply water-based skincare before anything oil-based. Go by texture: apply the most watery formulas first. Build layers as they get thicker and heavier, finishing with the richest oil or cream. The exception is eye products – they should go on first, as other skincare around the eyes will prevent them absorbing. Always finish with a sunscreen for day.

What else do you need to know?

Don’t apply too many layers or apply them too quickly, as you’ll dilute them. There’s only so much that skin can soak up. Three layers, plus a daytime SPF, should cover all the bases. Each needs at least a “sticky minute” – up to 15 minutes for actives like retinol and acids

– to absorb properly and get to work, before you apply the next layer. So in the morning, work layers into your routine: cleanse, apply eye cream and hyaluronic acid, have a coffee, add antioxidants, brush your teeth, moisturise, get dressed, layer on sunscreen, apply makeup – and you’re ready to go!