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The ancient Chinese practice of acupuncture is rising in popularity as a cosmetic treatment, with the likes of Gwyneth Paltrow posting needle-faced selfies on Instagram.

During a treatment, ultrafine needles are inserted into the skin to create a “microtrauma” that signals to the body’s healing cells to produce collagen and elastin. While hard science behind the benefits of cosmetic acupuncture is limited, one small Korean study found that, after five treatments, participants showed significant improvement in facial elasticity.

“In Chinese medicine, acupuncture treats a skin problem by focusing on the way the respiratory or digestive system affects the skin, and the local dryness and inflammation that affects it directly,” explains Doctor of Acupuncture and

Chinese Medicine, Dr Jill Blakeway.

According to Dr Vivian Tam (TCM), founder of Cosmetic Acupuncture Melbourne, facial acupuncture has three key benefits. “Firstly, it can target weakened and drooping muscles and instruct them to tighten and tone. Secondly, it stimulates collagen and elastin production to soften lines and promote firmness. Thirdly, the ultra-fine, painless needles increase blood circulation to the face, resulting in a glow from within,” she says.

While the effects of cosmetic acupuncture are cumulative (collagen can take a few weeks to build), just one session is enough to boost hydration and radiance.