HEALTH HERO

PAM BURRIDGE, 54

The former world surfing champ is still making waves, encouraging women of every age to have the ride of their life. I’ve run a surf school in Mollymook on the NSW South Coast for around 18 years. One of my favourite things is our women’s surf retreats. You know how women are always overbooked and overscheduled? They come down here, often with a group of girlfriends, from Friday to Sunday. They don’t have to cook or shop, they get surfing lessons and do yoga. They can watch videos of themselves doing some funny wipeouts or getting great rides and have lots of laughs. It’s such an empowering and great weekend.

Surfing is a total mind/body/spirit activity. It caught my attention from the first wave I rode. It’s the thrill of feeling the energy of the water coming up through your board, and through your feet. After that first time, you’re focused on trying to replicate that feeling on the next wave. It’s all about the chase – the lure of future pleasure.

Back in the ’ 70s and ’ 80s, it wasn’t a very friendly environment in the water for women. I hear a lot of women say that they either got ridiculed or had barriers put in their way. But that’s all changed and everyone is out there now, whether you’re a woman, or you’re a certain age. Sure, it’s a young person’s sport to fly through the air and do crazy things. But surfing is a lifelong sport because experience really matters – reading the ocean and reading the wave you’re on.

For more info, visit pamburridge.com

Surfing’s a total mind, body, spirit activity – the thrill of feeling the energy of the water coming up through your board, through your feet.