Cheat sheet: probiotics

We know they’re beneficial for gut health, but what can probiotics do for our skin?

Great

for your gut and your skin

What are they?

In a word, bacteria. Just like your gut health, your skin health relies on these good guys that are found in fermented foods (or, in the case of skincare, generally derived from dairy).

Why are they in skincare?

Bacteria occurs naturally in the body, including on the surface of the skin. In an ideal world, the good outnumber the bad to create a healthy ecosystem (aka the microbiome), keeping hydration up, inflammation down and protecting from pollution, UV, hormone imbalance and other external and internal aggressors. When the balance of the microbiome tips, skin can become dry and sensitive. Topically applied probiotics can calm conditions caused by imbalance, and may even repopulate the microbiome.

Who needs them?

City dwellers and those prone to sensitivity. Probiotics may also offer anti-ageing benefits. And while still being researched, studies show they can treat conditions such as acne, eczema and rosacea.

Where can you find them?

In a plethora of products, from creams to serums, and even cleansers. Look for strains such as lactobacilli, lactococci or bifido bacteria on the label, avoiding formulations containing sulphates, alcohol and perfume, which can compromise the quality of the bacteria.

What about supplements?

As bacterial imbalance in the gut has been linked to inflammatory issues in the skin, oral probiotics can have a beneficial effect on the complexion. Skin-specific probiotic supplements are on the rise – The Beauty Chef’s Glow Inner Beauty Powder contains 14 species of bacteria and beneficial yeasts – including lactobacillus, bifidobacterium and saccharomyces, which boost gut health and may reduce oxidative stress and inflammation – all factors that contribute to skin ageing.

Anything else to know?

There’s an ongoing debate about ‘live’ bacteria versus ‘dead’. Most skincare brands use bacteria deactivated by heat, making them easier to work with while still retaining calming qualities. Others argue deactivated bacteria can no longer repopulate the microbiome. However, keeping live bacteria intact throughout manufacturing and transportation is a feat. Preservatives also kill them, which is why some brands don’t use them. Esse, though, boasts live bacteria in its newest serum (see left). If using ‘live’ skincare, avoid applying retinols or acids at the same time, as they’ll instantly kill the bacteria strains.