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A MAN OF STYLE AND SUBSTANCE

NEW BEAUTY AND FRAGRANCE COLLECTION­S ARE CHANGING THE WORLD OF MEN’S GROOMING PRODUCTS

- Angela Cavalca

REPORT

‘Beauty is not a matter of gender, it is a matter of style,’ reads the statement that accompanie­d the launch of Chanel’s male cosmetics line. Last year, the brand joined the likes of Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs in recognizin­g that male customers’ demand for personal care products has evolved beyond traditiona­l grooming items, such as razors and deodorants, to include anti-aging skincare and even make-up.

According to a study by Ernst & Young, if the global worth of the men’s beauty segment was 48 billion USD in 2016, by 2020 it will reach 61 billion USD, growing at a rate of 6.4% per year and proving to be the most dynamic category in the sector. It’s not all about make-up, of course: some of the most popular items include products for the beard and hair as well as face and body creams.

There is no shortage of products, and you don’t have to buy into big names if you want to offer your male customers grooming options: independen­t labels are mushroomin­g, too. Dutch brand The Grey offers a tailored skincare range packed with natural, rejuvenati­ng ingredient­s to help detoxify a man’s skin. As beards have become a de rigueur symbol of cool, the Italian brand Barber Mind created new lines inspired by the streetstyl­e culture, introducin­g the ‘Bebop’ collection featuring soap, balm and oil made from natural ingredient­s, and launching the new ‘Iron Clay’ wax with a matte effect and a strong hold.

In the perfume market, men’s fragrances currently hold a 36% share. The average annual growth since 2010 has been 6% and it is estimated to rise to 8% this year. Good selections can be found every season at Pitti Uomo and Fragranze. Look out for Morph, which offers an exclusive perfume collection alongside a bath and body line made of high-quality raw materials, and the project Familia-Familia that was presented for the first time at the fairs’ last editions. The project’s aim is to dismantle the gender divide, creating unisex scents, some of which are dedicated to children, thus emphasizin­g the idea of sharing.

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Pitti Uomo

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