MENSWEAR LABELS TO WATCH
LABELS TO WATCH
BRANDS
EMILY BODE
Emily Bode studied in New York, graduating from Parsons School of Design and Eugene Lang College with a dual degree in menswear design and philosophy. She launched her namesake brand in 2016; in 2018, she was a runner up for the prestigious CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund; and in 2019 she was a finalist for the LVMH Prize. Bode’s unique approach consists in her reliance on deadstock fabrics that she repurposes into elegant menswear items brimming with retro references. She started by making one-of-akind pieces out of tablecloths, 19th-century quilts, antique towels and French mattress covers; today, she produces complete collections mainly from antique fabrics and enjoys the custom of celebrities like Ezra Miller. Bode had her first show at Paris Men’s Fashion Week earlier this year. Her designs are stocked by prominent retailers in 11 countries, including Bergdorf Goodman (US), Browns and Matchesfashion (UK), Tomorrowland (Japan), Galeries Lafayette (France) and many more. www.bodenewyork.com
JUNLI
Born in Shanghai in 1991, Jun Li began his fashion journey studying womenswear, before enrolling in a menswear design degree at London College of Fashion. His namesake label, Junli, presented its designs at London Collections Men (LC:M) S/S 16 showcase for the first time, and soon after he was invited to show his 2017 menswear collection at Milan Menswear Week with full sponsorship. Today, the brand’s offer encompasses both menswear and womenswear; however, the penchant for streamlined tailoring gives away Li’s menswear training. In an interview, the designer described his ideal customer as “silent, sharp and sophisticated… not loud, not obvious”. Indeed, his collections ooze serenity and meaningful understatement. Smooth silhouettes are punctuated by slightly oversized or asymmetric details, but these are never over-the-top; on the contrary, noticing them requires slow and concentrated contemplation – an attitude that is most compatible with Junli clothes. The brand shows at Noseason Showroom. www.jun-li.com
FFIXXED STUDIOS
Fiona Lau completed a fashion degree at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, and Kain Picken studied fine art at the Victorian College of the Arts. Together they founded FFIXXED STUDIOS, which began as a collaborative art project before becoming one of China’s leading sustainable fashion brands. The duo works with natural fibers and sustainable production processes and strives to ensure their clothes are not only ethically made but will also last a lifetime; they develop many of their fabrics by hand from discarded and excess materials, and have implemented sustainability measures throughout their supply chain. Their aesthetic exudes laid-back simplicity with nods both to streetwear and traditional menswear; constant reflections on the relationship between work and life in contemporary society are a source of inspiration. The collections are shown during Tokyo, Paris and Shanghai Fashion Weeks. The brand has over 60 stockists, including Lane Crawford and is distributed by DUNE. ffixxed.com