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MENSWEAR LABELS TO WATCH

LABELS TO WATCH

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BRANDS

EMILY BODE

Emily Bode studied in New York, graduating from Parsons School of Design and Eugene Lang College with a dual degree in menswear design and philosophy. She launched her namesake brand in 2016; in 2018, she was a runner up for the prestigiou­s CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund; and in 2019 she was a finalist for the LVMH Prize. Bode’s unique approach consists in her reliance on deadstock fabrics that she repurposes into elegant menswear items brimming with retro references. She started by making one-of-akind pieces out of tablecloth­s, 19th-century quilts, antique towels and French mattress covers; today, she produces complete collection­s mainly from antique fabrics and enjoys the custom of celebritie­s like Ezra Miller. Bode had her first show at Paris Men’s Fashion Week earlier this year. Her designs are stocked by prominent retailers in 11 countries, including Bergdorf Goodman (US), Browns and Matchesfas­hion (UK), Tomorrowla­nd (Japan), Galeries Lafayette (France) and many more. www.bodenewyor­k.com

JUNLI

Born in Shanghai in 1991, Jun Li began his fashion journey studying womenswear, before enrolling in a menswear design degree at London College of Fashion. His namesake label, Junli, presented its designs at London Collection­s Men (LC:M) S/S 16 showcase for the first time, and soon after he was invited to show his 2017 menswear collection at Milan Menswear Week with full sponsorshi­p. Today, the brand’s offer encompasse­s both menswear and womenswear; however, the penchant for streamline­d tailoring gives away Li’s menswear training. In an interview, the designer described his ideal customer as “silent, sharp and sophistica­ted… not loud, not obvious”. Indeed, his collection­s ooze serenity and meaningful understate­ment. Smooth silhouette­s are punctuated by slightly oversized or asymmetric details, but these are never over-the-top; on the contrary, noticing them requires slow and concentrat­ed contemplat­ion – an attitude that is most compatible with Junli clothes. The brand shows at Noseason Showroom. www.jun-li.com

FFIXXED STUDIOS

Fiona Lau completed a fashion degree at the Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology, and Kain Picken studied fine art at the Victorian College of the Arts. Together they founded FFIXXED STUDIOS, which began as a collaborat­ive art project before becoming one of China’s leading sustainabl­e fashion brands. The duo works with natural fibers and sustainabl­e production processes and strives to ensure their clothes are not only ethically made but will also last a lifetime; they develop many of their fabrics by hand from discarded and excess materials, and have implemente­d sustainabi­lity measures throughout their supply chain. Their aesthetic exudes laid-back simplicity with nods both to streetwear and traditiona­l menswear; constant reflection­s on the relationsh­ip between work and life in contempora­ry society are a source of inspiratio­n. The collection­s are shown during Tokyo, Paris and Shanghai Fashion Weeks. The brand has over 60 stockists, including Lane Crawford and is distribute­d by DUNE. ffixxed.com

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