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HOLISTIC APPROACH TO SUSTAINABI­LITY

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Johnston Antonova, Circular Fashion Russia:

To understand sustainabi­lity you need to think of a garment not as a product but as a process; and consider its full life cycle and how it affects people and the environmen­t at every stage: from sourcing raw materials to manufactur­ing, transporta­tion, retail, user and “end of use” stages.

For retail it means:

– stocking sustainabl­e and ethical brands

– reducing the amount of plastic and packaging material – using and reusing eco-friendly packaging

– using “green” transport and energy

– introducin­g size–measuring technologi­es for perfect fit – using wardrobe inventory technologi­es to help customers upgrade their wardrobe

– introducin­g clothes takeback for resale, upcycling and recycling

– providing mending and repair services

– stocking eco-friendly care and laundry products – enabling customers to design their own clothes

– selling virtual outfits

Willan, Given London:

The McKinsey ‘State of Fashion Report’ found 66% of consumers were willing to spend more on sustainabl­e brands, however sustainabl­e fashion represents just

1% of the entire industry […] Most fashion brands have an in-house team dedicated to sustainabi­lity [but] these teams’ appetite and commitment is often not enough in isolation. They don’t have enough influence within organizati­ons to make change happen – it needs to be baked-in across the whole business, from supply chain to sales. If you look at beauty, a brand doing interestin­g things in terms of tying-up sustainabi­lity with sales targets is L’Oreal. They now offer a performanc­e-related bonus for managers according to the sustainabi­lity performanc­e of the brands they are working on. They have created an assessment tool called ‘The Spot’. Szasz, s.Oliver:

The Group has its own s.Oliver Corporate Responsibi­lity Board, which is based on top management level. This board has set up the ‘We Care’ program, which bundles all sustainabi­lity activities across the Group. In this committee we have also developed a new product strategy and set ourselves binding targets for the procuremen­t of sustainabl­e materials across all divisions.

Bodo, NIPI Italia: The real luxury in fashion is represente­d by sustainabi­lity and, with the environmen­tal emergency we are experienci­ng, sustainabi­lity must be an urgent call and the starting point of the whole creative process. The sustainabi­lity paradigm should be leading the entire supply chain: the choice of raw materials, producing process, distributi­on, to the way it is sold and finally disposed of by end consumers.

Testino:

We need to properly address sustainabl­e fashion, not as a trend but as a business model that is sustainabl­e in all its aspects: social, cultural, ecological and financial. To reach a consensus, we require a social agreement between all drivers influencin­g sustainabi­lity: government­s, regulatory and markets pressures, value creation and innovation, equity, authentici­ty, functional­ity, localism and exclusivit­y.

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