MATERIALS AND PRODUCTION: PRACTICAL SOLUTIONS AND CASE STUDIES
Turner, Vicunha:
The most important aspect is undoubtedly water. One aspect we rarely talk about is ‘gray water’, the fresh water we need to use to dilute the effluent before returning it to its natural state; this needs to be taken into the overall calculation of water use. Vicunha identifies the use of water throughout the entire production chain, allowing us to focus our attention on areas where we can improve on water use. Of course reducing, re-using and recycling makes economic sense, they all go towards creating greater production efficiency.
McNaull, Cordura:
Invista’s Cordura brand fabrics are durable and long-lasting in order to help minimize waste and reduce water and energy consumption.
Bodo, NIPI Italia:
Our latest product development: the first 100% post-consumer regenerated planet-friendly down fabric, Thindown Recycled. Down has a longer lifecycle than garments and duvets, offering chances for a circular management of raw materials.
Castellano, North Sails:
We are using recycled plastic in our outerwear as much as we can, and we have now reached more than 70% of production. We have eliminated all the plastic from our e-commerce packaging and replaced it with cotton bags to be reused in daily life. Next season, we are introducing new fabrics such as bamboo, viscose and SeaCell, which are much more sustainable options than normal oil-derived fabrics. Biasotto, NYKY:
For the stuffing of OOF Wear garments we have chosen the Sorona Eco wadding certified by DuPont, which offers a reduced dependence on fossil fuels and a limited environmental impact. The fibers of this wadding are 60% degradable and guarantee comfort, elasticity and softness to clothing. We also use more animal-friendly eco leather and an eco fur that gives a brighter look to the outerwear and accessories. As it is difficult to control all origins, we increasingly work with totally or partially recycled materials.
Wunder, Wunderwerk:
We use organic cotton and exclude toxic chemicals completely. Not putting them into circulation means not having to filter them and this benefits nature, rivers and workers.
For our jeans, no toxic chemicals such as potassium permanganate or chlorine are used; generally, no jeans use more than ten liters of water. We even have decreased our water consumption from dark washings from three to 0.70 liters, using recycled water. Brands and producers must collaborate very closely and have the same goals. Konukoğlu, ISKO:
We look at water consumption as well as chemicals, dyestuffs, and eco-toxicity measures; and we have an Environmental Management System in place, certified to an international standard. We have obtained Life-Cycle Assessments (LCAs) for all our 25,000+ denim products and certified Environmental Product Declarations (EPDs). These allow our customers to make responsible sourcing choices and led to the creation of independently devised Product Category Rules (PCR).
Berman, KES:
We utilize eco-friendly practices in our manufacturing by recycling garments, using biodegradable materials, and partnering with local plant-based dyers.
Karstad, Polartec:
As an industry, we must change what we mean by ‘natural resource’. Natural fiber versus synthetic fiber isn’t as clear a choice as it seems, as the cost in resource (especially water) can outweigh the benefits of natural fibers, while synthetics have the greatest promise with regard to durability and recyclability. Balance is key. However, there’s a lot of new science being created with the potential to radically alter how we solve one of the planet’s greatest challenges: the preponderance of post-consumer/industrial plastic. This intractable problem of too much plastic may actually turn out to be what stimulates innovation of fibers, fabrics, and fashion itself.