TECHNOFOLK
Beatrice Campani IN THE LATEST MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS, TRIBAL MOTIFS MEET HIGHLY TECHNOLOGICAL DETAILS AND FINISHINGS
MENSWEAR TREND
The modern nomad is the main protagonist of menswear collections, and he is traveling light: his clothes have designated compartments to contain his multiple gadgets, and their fabrics are so advanced that he doesn’t need to bring extra layers in order to keep warm. Welcome to the age of “Technofolk”: printed on a T-shirt, this term became the key word of Marcelo Burlon County of Milan’s S/S20 collection as it reflects the brand’s signature attitude towards mixing high-tech materials with craft-inspired elements, such as patches or jacquard. However, it could also be applied to a number of other menswear lines.
This mood is captured in the Etro collection. With inspirations from different cultures, Kean Etro celebrates the brand’s wanderlust-fueled DNA with sophisticated fabrics and loose silhouettes. Cozy ponchos and bombers featuring tribal motifs with a lively naïf spirit meet hyper comfortable pants with elastic cuffs. Marni interprets the nomadic theme through tropical elements rendered in suit or camouflage looks, bringing together urban and ethnic vibes. Local craftsmanship is palpable in Loewe’s kaftans: their cotton is crafted in Bangladesh and their denim comes from Japan, while other materials are embroidered in Burkina Faso.
Juun.J offers suits with functional pocket details; the silhouettes of high-tech anoraks and jackets bear a resemblance to ponchos. At Berluti, folksy colors and prints reminiscent of tie-dye meet sporty styles and intelligent fabrics. And White Mountaineering, too, is inspired by extreme sports, combining functional details with layered images and patterns: Gore-Tex fabrics and shoes made in collaboration with adidas offer a technical touch, all while conveying a vagabond disposition.