THE NEW DORIAN GRAY
A/W 20-21 COLLECTIONS SHOW A PEAK IN THE NEW SOFT MASCULINITY TREND THAT HAS BEEN BUILDING FOR SEVERAL SEASONS
MENSWEAR TREND
The wave of opulent noble fabrics, extravagant embellishments and a glamorous soft color palette has surged over A/W 20 menswear shows. These collections combine traditional tailoring elements with trimmings of lace and chiffon, velvet and fluid silks, satins, sheers, luxurious wools, floral prints, refined embroidery, beads and pearls.
The Dior Homme show has been the apogee of this trend. Inspired by the House’s 1950s haute couture archives, it revealed Dorian Gray-like silhouettes with shimmering pearl gray and brown taffeta coats, oversized rosettes at the collars, sumptuous embroideries, velvet high opera gloves and pearl mono-earrings. Louis Vuitton’s well-coordinated sartorial lineup, on the other hand, was completed by shirts featuring scattered crystals, ruffles and surreal prints of blue sky and clouds inspired by the works of René Magritte. Ludovic de Saint Sernin revealed a highly wearable collection with his signature pieces, such as ceramic masks and pajama-like satins. Infused with Spanish historical references, the Palomo Spain collection featured renaissance sleeve blouses, delicate lace inserts, floral brocade coats and sparkling embroidery.
Bode showed recycled couture-level crafted items, while at Loewe and JW Anderson, Jonathan Anderson created a collection that inflected menswear with couture elements. Likewise, the Casablanca show delivered exuberant looks with clustered pearls and diamond accessories as well as prints of picturesque landscapes, swans and Dalmatians. As the market for men’s jewelry is growing (see our report in WeAr Issue 61), so too is the market for menswear that is not afraid to be highly decorated, sumptuous and sensual while remaining masculine.