KIDULTHOOD
Beatrice Campani
The evolution of genderless items and fashion’s determination to challenge patriarchal codes of masculinity have led to a new dimension in menswear. Its key motto: let the new man find his inner child, reconnecting with fragility and tenderness, admitting to his fears, embracing kindness and care – and a bit of silliness.
At Gucci, which returned to Milan’s Men’s Fashion Week after several seasons of co-ed shows, the creative director Alessandro Michele took inspiration from children’s wardrobes. Baby-doll dresses were worn as overshirts, while soft cropped sweaters in pastel colors, tweed coats, denim and lamé trousers, shorts and 1960s-inspired V-neck sweatshirts had a childish or adolescent nonchalance about them. One of the jumpers featured a sign saying ‘Mon petit chou’ (my little darling). Long socks reminiscent of those worn by schoolboys completed the looks.
Marni is not afraid of playfulness either: there, a tank top in fuchsia can be worn with tailored pants and sneakers. JW Anderson’s men donned white shirts with ruffles that looked like a kid’s prom dress (complete with a gold necklace). Prada looked into the elegance of school uniforms, with bright mismatched items as well as tailored pajamas.
It’s impossible to forget the childhood memories behind Jacquemus’ collection, too. ‘L'Année 97’ is inspired by a moment in the life of the designer when he was only seven years old and designed his first garment. The collection is a mix of country attitude with a South-of-France vibe: loose silhouettes, baggy trousers and cargo shirts. At Loewe, the inspiration comes from the idea of a child trying on 1950s haute couture: structured coats, fitted shearlings, sweaters embroidered with crystals, shirts with feather fringes, and dresses (yes, again!) worn over sweatshirts. Let’s hope this new aesthetic can help men shake up the system.