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TOOLS FOR TRANSPAREN­CY: MEASURING FASHION’S FOOTPRINT

Angela Cavalca NEW DIGITAL TOOLS CAN HELP INCREASE ENVIRONMEN­TAL AWARENESS FOR BOTH BRANDS AND CONSUMERS

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REPORT

It’s no secret that the production, distributi­on, consumptio­n and disposal cycles of the fashion and textiles industry play a consistent role in climate change. According to ‘The Fashion on Climate’ report released in 2020 by McKinsey & Company, around 70% of the fashion industry’s emissions in 2018 came from upstream activities such as materials production, preparatio­n and processing. The remaining 30% were associated with downstream retail operations such as the use-phase and end-of-use activities at consumer level.

Consumers therefore play an essential role in the cycle and are becoming increasing­ly aware of how their spending decisions impact the world. Boston Consulting Group’s 2020 Fashion’s Big Reset analysis highlights that the pandemic is shifting consumer sentiments; now – more than ever – consumers favor brands that put sustainabi­lity and ethics at the forefront of their ethos. Therefore, brands and retailers must ensure that they operate transparen­tly, acting in ways that are environmen­tally and socially responsibl­e.

New digital tools that measure the ecological or carbon footprint of a material, garment or a wardrobe are one way of helping both brands and consumers track the impact of their decisions. In 2020, the online luxury retailer Farfetch introduced a new fashion footprint tool that allows consumers, when choosing a product, to consider which materials can reduce the environmen­tal impact of their purchase and to compare the environmen­tal savings of incorporat­ing pre-owned purchases into their wardrobes.

Consignmen­t and thrift store ThredUp recently launched a Fashion Footprint Calculator in collaborat­ion with the California-based carbon calculatin­g startup Green Story. The tool allows customers to understand the environmen­tal cost of their fashion choices with suggestion­s on how to reduce their footprint. Similarly, e-marketplac­e Goshopia provides a personaliz­ed carbon footprint calculator that not only makes customers aware of their footprint but suggests ways to offset it via small changes in their daily activities.

At industry level, brands and retailers can collaborat­e with their upstream partners to ensure consistent actions to accelerate sustainabl­e progress. In the textile sector, Italian fabric manufactur­er Eurojersey adopted the PEF (Product Environmen­tal Footprint) self-assessment system that allows brands to calculate the environmen­tal footprint of garments made in their Sensitive Fabrics. The designer Chiara Boni at Chiara Boni La Petite Robe utilized these fabrics for her whole collection and, as a result, was the first Italian womenswear company to obtain the European PEF certificat­ion.

Brands and retailers can implement several tools to be more forthcomin­g with data regarding their efforts to pursue responsibl­e actions while increasing customer awareness of product purchases. As consumers continue to value brand transparen­cy as a key purchasing decision, such tools will undoubtedl­y help the process towards a more sustainabl­e fashion economy.

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Farfetch

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